Örverpið M 4+
15 related routes
Bestur vetur M 4+
Route number C12.
Starts in a crack and leads up to a tricky slab. Easy finnish.
FA: Matteo Meucci & Halldór Fannar, April 2017, M 4+ 20m
Earl grey M 7
Route number C4.
Mixed (clean) variant of Íste. GHC led the route onsight and world famous Jeff Lowe followed. The route was at the time, the hardest mixed route in Iceland.
FA: Guðmundur Helgi Christiansen & Jeff Lowe, 11. February 1998
Apagredda M 5
Route number C2.
The route is on the left side of the ridge by Íste. Starts in a corner (rock) rigth side and under an icicle, traverses up and to the left on an obvious bump on rock, there you can reach the icicle. Vertical ice from there and to the top.
FA: Guðmundur Tómasson & Páll Sveinsson, February 1997
Keisarinn
Route number C8.
The bump between Múlakaffi (C7) and Fyrirburinn (C9). Bolted to some extent. Like many other routes this gets filled with ice and becomes a WI 3/4.
The route has a bolt with a ring above the steepest ice. Placed 2023.
FA: Unknown
Helgi WI 3+
Route number C15
Most to the right in Testofan, there are three easy routes, Helgi is the one on the right. Some bolts and a top anchor.
The route has two extra bolts with rings, see picture. Placed 2023.
FA: Unknown
Eiríkur WI 3+
Route number C14
On the right in Testofan, there are three easy and short routes. This one is in the middle of those three. Some bolts and a bolted top anchor.
FA: Unknown
Gísli WI 3+
Route number C13.
Int the right of Testofan there are three easy and short routes. This one is the left one of those three. Has some bolts and a topanchor.
FA: Unknown
Fyrirburinn
Route number C9.
Anchor in a scree above the route. Easy scramble to it but hard to see from the top.
Ca. 35m long
The route has a bolt with a ring above the steepest ice. Placed 2023.
FA: Unknown
Espresso M 6
Route number C1.
Few meters east of Íste.
Steep and tricky start but it gets less steep quickly. Slab in the middle and a tricky final part.
Bolted bottom up and has a two bolt top anchor. Tvo bolts are under small roofs that you pass and should not go under ice so easily. Also the first two bolts should stay ice free because most of the ice forms on the wall to the left. Bolt on a knob at the left side of the slabb. Better find it if the route is dry.
Should be climbable with the first frost, good moss crack that you follow after the first section and tightly bolted in most places.
One bolt is in the rock 5m above the top anchor. Easier to make a belay there, the two bolt anchor is more for top rope.
WI5/M6, 35 m
FA: Sigurður Tómar, Róber og Baldur Þór, 13. December 2014
Mömmuleiðin M 6
Route number C6.
Next corner on the right of Pabbaleiðin (C5). Bolted to the top with an anchor above a small mossy ledge above the route. Possible to walk to the anchor along a ledge.
Ca. 30 m long, 11 bolts.
FA: Unknown
Pabbaleiðin
Route number C5.
Just right of Íste (C3), in a corner. Bolted the whole way with an anchor on a slab above the route, be cautious there is a little bit of a scramble to there!
Ca. 30m long, 14 bolts
FF: Páll Sveinsson og Þorvaldur Þórsson,
FA: Páll Sveinsson
Íste WI 5
Route number C3.
Three bolts in the starting overhang. So quite safe climbing up the icicle even if it doesn’t reach all the way down og doesn’t handle screws.
No matter that, the route is quite serious because the top part is also tricky.
Top anchor at the top and a single bolt in the rock a few meters higher, above Pabbaleiðin (C5=
Ca. 30m löng
Comments
Leave a Reply
You must be logged in to post a comment.
First bolt replaced because on a loose rock. The pillar at the base also came off because very loose.