Steep and tricky start but it gets less steep quickly. Slab in the middle and a tricky final part.
Bolted bottom up and has a two bolt top anchor. Tvo bolts are under small roofs that you pass and should not go under ice so easily. Also the first two bolts should stay ice free because most of the ice forms on the wall to the left. Bolt on a knob at the left side of the slabb. Better find it if the route is dry.
Should be climbable with the first frost, good moss crack that you follow after the first section and tightly bolted in most places.
One bolt is in the rock 5m above the top anchor. Easier to make a belay there, the two bolt anchor is more for top rope.
WI5/M6, 35 m
FA: Sigurður Tómar, Róber og Baldur Þór, 13. December 2014
Mixed (clean) variant of Íste. GHC led the route onsight and world famous Jeff Lowe followed. The route was at the time, the hardest mixed route in Iceland.
Möguleg staðsetning Earl Grey (rauð lína). Ekki víst, vantar enn staðfestingu. Græn lína er Íste og blá er Pabbaleiðin.
FA: Guðmundur Helgi Christiansen & Jeff Lowe, 11. February 1998
The route is on the left side of the ridge by Íste. Starts in a corner (rock) rigth side and under an icicle, traverses up and to the left on an obvious bump on rock, there you can reach the icicle. Vertical ice from there and to the top.
FA: Guðmundur Tómasson & Páll Sveinsson, February 1997
Steep and tricky start but it gets less steep quickly. Slab in the middle and a tricky final part.
Bolted bottom up and has a two bolt top anchor. Tvo bolts are under small roofs that you pass and should not go under ice so easily. Also the first two bolts should stay ice free because most of the ice forms on the wall to the left. Bolt on a knob at the left side of the slabb. Better find it if the route is dry.
Should be climbable with the first frost, good moss crack that you follow after the first section and tightly bolted in most places.
One bolt is in the rock 5m above the top anchor. Easier to make a belay there, the two bolt anchor is more for top rope.
WI5/M6, 35 m
FA: Sigurður Tómar, Róber og Baldur Þór, 13. December 2014
Next corner on the right of Pabbaleiðin (C5). Bolted to the top with an anchor above a small mossy ledge above the route. Possible to walk to the anchor along a ledge.
Just right of Íste (C3), in a corner. Bolted the whole way with an anchor on a slab above the route, be cautious there is a little bit of a scramble to there!
Three bolts in the starting overhang. So quite safe climbing up the icicle even if it doesn’t reach all the way down og doesn’t handle screws.
No matter that, the route is quite serious because the top part is also tricky.
Top anchor at the top and a single bolt in the rock a few meters higher, above Pabbaleiðin (C5=
Sigurður Tómas Þórisson
Ca. 30m löng
Comments
Farin í mjög skemmtilegum aðstæðum 20. nóv ´16.
2nd ascent? (ekki viss hvort búið var að endurtaka hana áður).
Skemmtilega þunn í fyrri partinum og hægt að klippa í alla bolta þar.
Meiri ís í toppinn og þar voru sumir boltar á kafi og risastór sketchy regnhlíf sem gerði lokamauvin nokkuð snúin (og varasöm…)
Frábær leið.
Farin í mjög skemmtilegum aðstæðum 20. nóv ´16.
2nd ascent? (ekki viss hvort búið var að endurtaka hana áður).
Skemmtilega þunn í fyrri partinum og hægt að klippa í alla bolta þar.
Meiri ís í toppinn og þar voru sumir boltar á kafi og risastór sketchy regnhlíf sem gerði lokamauvin nokkuð snúin (og varasöm…)
Frábær leið.