The first accent was in very thin conditions and it didn’t take a single ice screw. Some trad placements are available but there is a decent section right above the start and to the midpoint that doesn’t have many options for pro. The route is probably WI 4 if it gets fat but it was closer to WI 4+ in the first accent
FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson, 08.03 2017
A route up the buttress between Frosti (D6) and Dvali (D8).
Grade M(D) 7, 26m, 13 bolts. Up on top there is a single bolt that can be used to approach the edge and then by the edge there are two bolts, one of them has a ring.
The route follows the same crack from the beginning and all the way to the top. A lot of the holds for the axes relys on torquing the axe so the blade stays in but occasionally you can hook a deeper edge. The footholds are in some parts very few and delicate for crampons. Probably it’s better to wear normal rock climbing shoes since there is no ice and almost no wet parts in the route. The route can be climbed as a sport climb in the summer.
Nice arette in the beginning with keymoves mid way up. Final part is on a vertical wall and a thin crack. Traditional protection. This route was the 90th in Matteos 100 route mission (2017).
The route has been bolted in 2018 and added a bolt on the top anchor in 2024 (now 2 bolts but no rings for top rope).
Drytooling route explored on top rope about 10 years ago (2013ish) from Ivar Finnbogason, Björgvinn Hilmarsson and Viðar Helgason.
Start with some moss hooks and then after a good rest follows a crack with marginal foot holds to get to a delicate traverse and finish on final cracks.
One bolt at the bottom for the belayer. Top anchor with 2 bolts with a big Mallon for the top rope or abseiling down. Easy accessible from Testofan.
FF Matteo Meucci 13/12/2024 on pink-point (pre placed gear)
The first accent was in very thin conditions and it didn’t take a single ice screw. Some trad placements are available but there is a decent section right above the start and to the midpoint that doesn’t have many options for pro. The route is probably WI 4 if it gets fat but it was closer to WI 4+ in the first accent
FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson, 08.03 2017
Rísandi vestari (right side) was the first big waterfall to be climbed in Múlafjall. After the first part the waterfall splits in two. This route goes to the right and is slightly harder than the left one.
FA: Jón Geirsson & Snævarr Guðmundsson 21. April 1983
