First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi, marked as N0 in the topos
Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice
Belay on top with sling around rocks
FF Óþekktur
(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)
| Crag | Múlafjall |
| Sector | Leikfangaland |
| Type | Ice Climbing |
| Markings |
First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi, marked as N0 in the topos
Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice
Belay on top with sling around rocks
FF Óþekktur
(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)
Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.
Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.
FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021
Route D7
A route up the buttress between Frosti (D6) and Dvali (D8).
Grade M(D) 7, 26m, 13 bolts. Up on top there is a single bolt that can be used to approach the edge and then by the edge there are two bolts, one of them has a ring.
The route follows the same crack from the beginning and all the way to the top. A lot of the holds for the axes relys on torquing the axe so the blade stays in but occasionally you can hook a deeper edge. The footholds are in some parts very few and delicate for crampons. Probably it’s better to wear normal rock climbing shoes since there is no ice and almost no wet parts in the route. The route can be climbed as a sport climb in the summer.
FA: Matteo Meucci, 25. april 2020.
Route number D10.
Easy corner with a ledge mid way. Protected with trad gear.
FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson May 2017, M 4, 30m
Route number D9
Nice arette in the beginning with keymoves mid way up. Final part is on a vertical wall and a thin crack. Traditional protection. This route was the 90th in Matteos 100 route mission (2017).
The route has been bolted in 2018 and added a bolt on the top anchor in 2024 (now 2 bolts but no rings for top rope).
FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, May 2017, M6, 30m
Route number D7b.
Drytooling route explored on top rope about 10 years ago (2013ish) from Ivar Finnbogason, Björgvinn Hilmarsson and Viðar Helgason.
Start with some moss hooks and then after a good rest follows a crack with marginal foot holds to get to a delicate traverse and finish on final cracks.
One bolt at the bottom for the belayer. Top anchor with 2 bolts with a big Mallon for the top rope or abseiling down. Easy accessible from Testofan.
FF Matteo Meucci 13/12/2024 on pink-point (pre placed gear)
Route number D13.
The first accent was in very thin conditions and it didn’t take a single ice screw. Some trad placements are available but there is a decent section right above the start and to the midpoint that doesn’t have many options for pro. The route is probably WI 4 if it gets fat but it was closer to WI 4+ in the first accent
FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson, 08.03 2017
25m WI 4/+ R
Route number D8
WI2-3. Short route up a gutter. It probably gets full of snow over the winter and becomes easier. It is possible to decend the next gully to the right
FA: Unknown
Route number D5
It’s possible to do at least 2 variations. The easier one follows ice ramp in the center and to the right. WI 4 single pitch
FA: Unknown
Route number 1 (D1).
Slightly easier than the west one
WI4.
FF: Jón Geirsson og Snævarr Guðmundsson 14.des 1986.
Skemmtilega myndaseríu frá Fjallateyminu má finna hér, þegar þeir fóru í leiðina í janúar 2018.
Route number 2 (D2).
Rísandi vestari (right side) was the first big waterfall to be climbed in Múlafjall. After the first part the waterfall splits in two. This route goes to the right and is slightly harder than the left one.
FA: Jón Geirsson & Snævarr Guðmundsson 21. April 1983
Route number D12.
Top right of Leikfangaland
WI3-4.
FA: Jón Geirsson and Snævarr Guðmundsson.
Route number 3 (D3)
WI 4-4+ 100m.
Few ice ledges, tallest one is 15m
FA: Jón Geirsson, Kristinn Rúnarsson og Snævarr Guðmundsson.
Route number D4
Starts in a steep icetickle and carrys on to a big ledge. Tecnical ice from there. WI4+ /WI 5.
2 pitches
FA: Unknown like most routes in Múlafjall
Route number D6
Wide and steep. 30m
FA: Jón Geirsson and Snævarr Guðmundsson 14. dec 1986.