The first pitch starts with 10-15 meters of WI4, but becomes WI3 after that. There is plenty of good ledges after the first wall of ice. Climbers have therefore multiple options in how to divide this route into two pitches. We did it in a 50m and then a 35m (WI3) pitch. This route can be a good choice for climbers where one is looking for a slightly harder lead while the other is looking for a more comfortable climb, the former would lead the first pitch while the latter would take the second pitch. This way both parties would have fun at their respective level.
The blue line on the topo shows a variation for the second pitch which is probably a bit more challenging.
Descent
There is no descent gully in close proximity so rappelling down the route on V-threads is the recommended method.
First Ascent
This route has not been documented before so we give it a name and rating. The name, “Just Foreplay”, is considered descriptive because the route starts with exciting moves but nothing of significance happens after that. Climbed by Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson and Halldor Fannar 21st of January 2024.
The first pitch starts with 10-15 meters of WI4, but becomes WI3 after that. There is plenty of good ledges after the first wall of ice. Climbers have therefore multiple options in how to divide this route into two pitches. We did it in a 50m and then a 35m (WI3) pitch. This route can be a good choice for climbers where one is looking for a slightly harder lead while the other is looking for a more comfortable climb, the former would lead the first pitch while the latter would take the second pitch. This way both parties would have fun at their respective level.
The blue line on the topo shows a variation for the second pitch which is probably a bit more challenging.
Descent
There is no descent gully in close proximity so rappelling down the route on V-threads is the recommended method.
First Ascent
This route has not been documented before so we give it a name and rating. The name, “Just Foreplay”, is considered descriptive because the route starts with exciting moves but nothing of significance happens after that. Climbed by Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson and Halldor Fannar 21st of January 2024.
Þægileg stölluð þriðja gráða. Fyrst þegar Hafnarfjarðar kreðsan frétti af leynisvæði Flubbana, skildum við aldrei almennilega hvar það var því að við höfðum jú talsvert klifrað í Þyrlinum norðanverðum upp af Litlasandsdal á árunum fyrir 2000. Það svæði gat því ekki verið leynisvæðið því að það var alþekkt og talsvert klifrað. Leiðin er því líklega fyrst farin einhvern tímann fyrir 2000, kannski af Markúsi Elvari Péturssyni og Eiríki Stefánssyni.
Leiðin var samt a.m.k. farin 9. janúar 2022 af Ágústi Þór Gunnlaugssyni, Þórhildi Höllu Jónsdóttur og Bergi Einarssyni.
Sunnanmegin innst í gilinu sem Bláskeggsá fellur um niður í Litlasandsdal (64°24,220′ -21°23,529′).
WI 3, ~40m.
Tveir stallar með góðri syllu á milli. Áin er talsvert vatnsmikil og leiðin er líklega oft of blaut til að klifra hana. Hægt er að halda lengra upp eftir ánni og klifra þar fleiri stalla.
Mögulega fyrst farin: 9. janúar 2022 af Bergi Einarssyni, Ágústi Þór Gunnlaugssyni og Þórhildi Höllu Jónsdóttur.
Miðjuleiðin austan megin í Litlasandsdal, aftan við Þyril.
Leiðin er um 70m en getur verið klifruð í einni risaspönn, WI 3
Skráð af: Freyr Ingi Björnsson, Haukur Már Sveinsson og Sveinn Friðrik Sveinsson, 30 des 2021, WI 3 – 70m.
Lengi hefur verið klifrað í dalnum svo mögulegt er að leiðin hafi verið klifin en upplýsingar um FF eru ekki þekktar. Ef þær upplýsingar eru til má koma þeim á ÍSALP.
One of the outermost routes, on the east side of the valley Litlasandsdalur, behind the mountain Þyrill.
The route is two full pitches when conditions are good. The first pitch is WI 4 (but can easily become stiffer in different conditions) and requires continuous climbing. Once you pull over the ledge there is a bit of a walk/crawl/climb to the next wall of ice. Somewhere on this section you will set up a belay (see topo). The next pitch starts out relatively steep, in the middle about WI 4 but WI 3+ on the sides. This pitch is a sequence of short vertical walls with and tops out on the mountain ridge.
Descent
On the climber’s right of “Liquid Nitrogen” (number 7) you will find a descent gully. In good snow this gully is a relatively nice way down. Another option is to rappel the original route on V-threads.
FA: Freyr Ingi Björnsson og Styrmir Steingrímsson, 2012, WI 4 – 55m og WI 3+ – 60m
Leið vestan megin í Litlasandsdal, næsta gil vestan við gilið sem Gljúfurá kemur niður úr.
Leiðin er mjög breið fyrstu tvo þriðju af leiðinni en lokakaflinn er upp mikið mjórri og brattari ís. Í frumferð var ísinn mjög fídusaður og klifrið var sennilega um WI 3 en það þarf ekki mikið að breytast til að leiðin verði WI 3+
Þegar komið er upp úr mjóa kertinu (ein spönn um 70m af klifri) þá er hægt að ganga í gilinu upp með ánni þar til komið er að öðrum litlum foss, ca 10m WI 2+.
FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Matteo Meucci, 9. desember 2018, WI 3 – 70m og WI 2+ – 10m
