Route number 8 on the topo.
The easy route, furthest to the right in the canyon.
Starts with 5-6m of steep ice but then becomes a slope with shorter sections of ice. Easy but charming route.
70m
FA: Haukur Elvar Harsteinsson og Ívar F. Finnbogason, Jan. 25th, 2004.
| Crag | Brattabrekka |
| Sector | Austurárdalur |
| Type | Ice Climbing |
| Markings |
The route starts just to the left of the “Blue route” but begins with a traverse to the left. Then climb a 10m (WI4+) vertical section of ice (which can be coated with a thin layer of snow). After this, traverse again to the left and set up an anchor. This is on a solid ledge and the route “Kiddi” starts there, a bit further to the left. But instead of heading there traverse back to the right and then straight up a 20m (WI4+) vertical section of good blue ice. After this section there is about 30m (WI3+) of climbing with alternating ice and snow. During the first ascent a v-thread in good ice was built underneath the rock outcrop and the route rappelled on two 60m ropes. There was a large cornice of snow above (no ice) and the rock provided psychological shelter.
The name of the route is a reference to the “Blue Route” and the fact that ice had a lighter shade of blue.
60m
FA: Halldór Fannar og Ágúst Kristján Steinarrsson, Feb. 17th, 2022
Number 5 on the topo.
An obvious pillar in the middle of the sector.
WI 7-, the first route in Iceland to get that grade, hopefully many more to come, so this is the hardest route in Iceland at the moment
FA: Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner, 23. feb 2016
Route is not shown on the topo.
A few short sections of ice, to the right of Plan B (route nr. 8)
50m
FA: Tom Gallagher og Ívar F. Finnbogason, Dec. 7th, 2004.
Route number 8 on the topo.
The easy route, furthest to the right in the canyon.
Starts with 5-6m of steep ice but then becomes a slope with shorter sections of ice. Easy but charming route.
70m
FA: Haukur Elvar Harsteinsson og Ívar F. Finnbogason, Jan. 25th, 2004.
Route number 7 on the topo.
The route starts to the right of the icicles that are overhanging in the middle of the sector. In the upper section it’s possible to go further to the right but it’s also possible to go for more steepness by heading left mid-route (Jobbi Dalton, other variations are possible).
The first section is vertical, followed by an incline, and then another vertical section that takes you to the top. An enjoyable and somewhat easy two-pitch route.
100m
FA: Páll Sveinsson, Þorvaldur Þórsson, Jón Gunnar Þorsteinsson, Haraldur Guðmundsson og Torbjörn Johansson, Jan. 25th, 2004.
Route number 6 on the topo.
The route is in the middle of the right hand side of the sector. The easiest start is to follow the first half of the Tourist route and then head left.
It may also be possible to take a more direct route by climbing one of the icicles, if you find one that is strong enough. This direct variation has yet to be completed.
FF: Jón Haukur og Guðmundur Helgi
Route number 4.
The route was named after the ice that was noticeably blue and solid. Tales are told of the route usually forming like that.
FA: Guðmundur Helgi og Jón Haukur
Route number 2
The route starts on a big ledge to the left in the canyon. The first section is vertical, about 10-15m in length. After that the vertical sections are shorter and the route ends in a long snow slope.
FA: Haukur Elvar og Ívar F. 25. jan. 2004, 80m
Route number 1 on the topo.
The route is to the left of the route “Kiddi”.
This route is in the left most corner of the sector. Starts with a steep icicle/pillar, about 7m in height. Followed by a snow slope that leads to protectable ice. The second pitch goes up a steep slope with snow, ice and a little bit of rock.
70m