Öræfajökull

KlifursvæðiThursday September 3rd, 2015Freyr Ingi

Öræfajökull is the third part of the Öræfi area, along with the low land areas Öræfi, Vestur and Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit. The sectors of Öræfajökull are:

Þumall

Detailed description for the approach is included with the Classic route. Only two routes are known up to Þumall (the Thumb), but most likely it is possible to climb the peak in more ways.

Black line: Classic route
Red line: South of the flake

Miðfellstindur

The classical hiking route to Miðfellstindur is for the most part the same as to Þumall, but once you get onto Vatnajökull you spiral around Miðfellstindur an top from the northen side. Miðfellstindur has one alpine route that goes directly up the south face and one ice climb next to the hiking route

1. SA veggur Miðfellstinds – WI 3 – 400m
2. Jólatré –  WI 5 -180m

Skarðatindar

Approach is over Skaftafellsjökull, either from Hafrafell side or maybe from the Skaftafell side if the glacier doesn’t retreat much more.

 

Rauð lína: Austurveggur – TD+
Green line: Jökulélé – TD+
Hægri mynd:  End of the Line – TD+

Hrútfjallstindar

1. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like it’s usually done) – PD.
2. Smjörfingur – TD+, AI5.
A. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like in the first accent) – PD.
3. 10 norskar stelpur – TD, AI 4.
4. Orginallinn – PD, II+.
B. Orginallinn (with the ridge) – PD, II+.
4,5. Lucky Leif (blue) – WI 5+.
5. Scotsleið – TD.
6. Íshröngl – TD, WI 4/5.
7. Postulínsleiðin – TD, WI 5.
8. Stóragil – PD.

Tindaborg
Also known as Fjallkirkja, Kirkja (The Church) or even Tröllkirkja. This summit is made of pretty bad rock and is only climbable in winter conditions. Due to it’s height the winter conditions can last through middle of May.

NA-hlíð Kirkjunar– AI 4
Öræfasýn – AI 4

Hvannadalshnjúkur

Rauð lína – Beina brautin – D – WI 4
Græn lína – Vinamissir – WI 3
Gul lína – Vesturhlíð –
Appelsínugul lína – The italian job – D – WI 4
Ekki á mynd – Orginal austurveggur – D – WI 5

Heljargnípa

NA hryggur Heljargnípu

Mávabyggðir

Suðurhlíð Fingurbjargar

Esjufjöll

Vitað er um eina leið upp tindinn Snók.

Suðurhlíð og SA hryggur Snóks

Directions

From Reykjavík you drive east on highway 1 to Skaftafell, or further, depending on the sector you want to visit.

Map