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Hi,
Me and Siggi Ymir went in Brynjudalur today and climbed a couple of pitches (C4 and B1). Ice is good and most of the line are formed. The road is impassable by the farm because of an hard pile of snow, so count 15min more on the approach. A bit of crost on the approach the closer to the cliff.
General conditions:
everything look pretty formed from Grafarfoss til Mulafjall (looks great) and over. A bit of snow on the easier routes but easy to spot (es: 55gradur in Buahamrar looks buried in snow). Orion is good, Eilifsdalur great, Yringur looks doable (a couple of parts in doubt), Snati and Nalaraugad are good.
Get the chances to go before the warm weather on monday til wednesday! 🙂 North exposed cliff are quite windy in these days.
Another party further in the cliff maybe in Þyrnigerðið sector.Hi,
went to Mulafjall yesterday to finish the bolting of “Bags and thoughts” M7-8ish (A8b) in the Lundi (A9) sector. I saw the track made leading to Testofan, someone has been there the day before.
Mulafjall looks pretty much in conditions but deep snow on approach (took me double the time to get to the top).On Friday me and Bergur Ingi went to Kjos and climbed Spori. Deep snow on the approach. the line is ok but 2 holes are making it bit trickier, is hollow on the top part. we didn’t find the anchor on the top and we walked down from the left.
Hi,
I’m not the most expert in ski crossing but maybe I can help you a bit.
Here you can have an idea how the thing are done by professional:
https://mountainguides.is/tour/sprengisandur-ski?currency=ISK1) Where we can rent the equipment like tent, pulka, gps phone, etc?
check on google or to Mountainguides.is asking for Hlynur.
2) Where we can finish? Hella or Grafarkirkja
Look that the winter is late this year and pretty unpredictable, we lack snow. On the newspaper today there is a pics of a place in the Highlands (kerlingafjoll) without snow. I personally think that if you can reach Hrauneyar on the way to Hella you can be pretty happy, southern than that is a lottery. If you refer as Grafarkirkja on the way to Kirkjubaerklaustur I think the crossing gets way harder and longer but probably still doable.
3) How was the weater in February-March
I think March better than Feb, longer daylights and bit more stable weather. April can be late and lack of snow. They say that if there is no snow for Christmas, snow will come for Easter. Maybe conditions will get better.
4) There are any huts on the way?
Few, Nyidalur and Laugafell. Check how to get access.
ww.fi.is and http://www.ffa.is5) What do you think about the equipment, cross-country skiing or traverse skiing.
Check the pictures in link
6) We think to spend about 15 days, it is enough?
The crossing is doable in 10, you can add as many as you like doing variations, and also be ready for a couple of stormy day.
Enjoy and have fun,
MatteoMe and Rory went to Mulafjall today. No ice conditions, we didn’t see any ice from RVK till Villingadalur then we drove back to Mulafjall.
We gave a try to the recently bolted route “Mind power” M7ish in Leikfangaland, almost sent, 1 rest on the crux…need to train more!
I lost my Grivel crampons bag in the gully, please return if you find it.Hi,
Me and Mike Reid went on Thorisjokull today, conditions were poor Birkitred is not formed and we found another line more right. We did a couple of pitches WI4/4+ 80m, with cornice crossing include. Ice wasn’t great, a bit of snow on top, hard to put gear. We lower from a gully right of the line.Hi,
went in Mulafjall today to bolt a couple of routes. The first one in Leikfangaland, “Mind power” M7ish 14 bolts on the left of D7 Dotadagur.
The second not finished yet in in Testofan is C12 “Bestur vetur”.
I saw 3 major rockfall happened during summertime, one on the right of Pabbaleid, one at the start of C8 Keisarinn and the last one on the right of D4 Fengitiminn in Leikfangaland: be careful on climbing close by!
Ice is getting better even if some umbrella grew in this windy day, some cleaning needed in the climbing.Hi, Jonni and Me went in Mulafjall. First we climbed an ice line (WI4) on left of “fimm I fotu” and then the line on the right of “Chinese Hoax” recently bolted by Palli (M6?) on October 6th.
Quite more ice then last time. Didn’t snow in last part of Hvalfjordur as in RVK last night, no snow on the approach.
Another party from Hvolsvollur climbed B10. Járntjaldið – WI 4.Went in Mulafjall yesterday, bolted “Fear is 90” in Leikfangland and open another project close by (info later on). Conditions are getting better, Testofan is climbable and many other lines look thin but doable. fresh snow while was there.
Blikdalur looks doable
Eilifsdalur looks doableWent in Blikdalur today (https://www.isalp.is/en/problem/goda-ferd-ueli) for some easy scrambling. I did a line on the far left on ice (WI2+) and then the main gullies of the crag.
Hi, with Siggi Ymir went to Hrutadalur yesterday and climbed a new line left of Bekri (64a). 4 pitches 240m WI4/4+ M (very scottish). Short screws , spectre cams nuts and tricams used. All belays on rock.
Conditions in Hrutadalur and Eilifsdalur are good. something left in Mulafjall (Leikfangland, risandi looks doable but to be checked, something in Testofan and left). villingadalur might be in conditions.
Skardsheidi is good.Hi,
yesterday on the 24th me and Riccardo we climbed the line above the Forest center on Ulfarsfell (WI2). A lot of fun on his first ice-line!
MatteoHi,
yesterday with Tom, Tim and Brecht we went on Midgil in Vesturbrunir. condition are dry, lot of snow and little ice; a lot of mix since the beginning and hard to put rock gear (screws just used few times and not on crux).Today with Tom, a quick ride on Buahamrar: first, the evident ice line on the left of n°35, second n°36 Strumpar and third Nálaraugað (2 bolted belay).
MatteoHi,
with Brecht and Tom went on Tviburagil. Conditions are good except for Helvitis..M4 that is completely dry. I had to dig out 20cm of ice by the top anchor. Bit wet the lower waterfall.Hi,
Tom and me went to 55 gradur today. Conditions are good, the pillar was wet and the other route on the right is thin. Many routes in Buahamrar are formed, nothing relevant on Vesturbrunir.
MatteoHi,
I’ve been traveling a bit in the last week.
Hrutadalur is in good conditions all the line are good. maybe after the snowfall of yesterday there is high risk of avalanches.I did two new lines, and easy gully (Bull by the horn WI2) on the right (first line on the approach) and a second on the left of the beginning of Thjodleid, Spenntir könnuðir WI4+.
Mulafjall is in early season conditions, bit of ice, most of the lines climbable, some bolts are sticking out maybe better to top rope.
Haukadalur poor conditions, tin ice and a lot of water in most of the lines.
Brattabrekka lot of water, not formed
austarardalur, saw from the road, maybe some ice
bolaklettur tin ice
skessuhorn is looking quite good
villingadalur some ice but open by water , maybe a lot of snow now.
Eilifsdalur is good, really good but risk of avalanches nowthe following week is forecast as cold , maybe something else is going in conditions.
MatteoHi,
short update about conditions. On Tuesday i went on a round trip of Esja and Skarsheidi: here is a short report.
Grafarfoss: went today and is ok, ice non always thick but some lines are good.
Tviburagill: on tues was pretty dry, maybe some more ice now
Vesturbrunir: dry except for welcome to iceland that is looking ok
Blikidalur: looks there are some lines
Hrutadalur: long approach but good conditions..see new ascents
Eilifsdalur: long approach but pretty good conditions all lines!!
Mulafjall: looks medium cold, probably to icy for dry but need more ice for ice.
Brynjudalur: pretty dry
Villingadalur: the lines were looking snow cover and with water in middle, but was before these cold day …so maybe ok
Bolaklettur: dry, needs more timePictures on FB @matteo100challenge
MatteoMe, Siggi Tommi and Jonni went in Tviburagill yesterday. Conditions were good. Me and Jonni sent Olympiska felagid and Siggi tried Verkalýðsfélagið. I also did the n°27 in the old topos (I think is Rennan).
We propose this name for the spur we climbed on the right of Fimm i fotu.
If someone knows about previous ascent, please let us know.
MatteoHi,
Me and Thorsteinn went in Mulafjall on Wednesday the 21st and climbed at Testofan. There was some ice but not enough for placing screw. We focus on mix and we did Gisli, Örverpið and Mulakaffi. Was the second day after the first snow, still a lot of dripping.
Conditions were promising.
MatteoAttachments:
Hi,
Me and Jonni went to Mulafjall and we climb a mix line on the right of Fimm i fotu. We splitted in two pitches to avoid friction. The second pitch is the crux, the entrance and the first meters in the last dihedral are the harder part. Jonny cleaned a bit when following but there still are many unstable rock: be careful!
Difficulties about M6.
On the top is better to extend the belay to the bolt of Fimm i fotu belay.
1 nut left on the first pitch and 1 piton on the belay of 1°pitch.
Someone knows if is it a first ascent? Let us know.
MatteoAttachments:
Hi,
I ended the bolting of a new route in Bolaklettur on friday 28th October. The mix part is about 20m long, with 9 bolts. The route has been bolted grounding up so might be that is not perfect; the first part was led and I just hang on the axes for bolting, for the second (more overhanging) i had to make some aid climbing but still on axes except for 2 cams (ladder connected to one axe and I was on the other).
The route need ice on the top part, that can be in two pitches to the top of the cliff: there is no a top anchor at the end of the rock part neither on top of the cliff.
I propose “Alea iacta est” (the die has been cast) as name and M8-M9 as grade to be confirmed (no one has climbed yet).
The route is not red tagged, everyone can go and try!
Would be kind if you invite me in the game if you go and in case return to me the 5 quickdraw left.
Have fun!
MatteoAttachments:
