Vondagil Hægri WI 3+

There are a number of interesting gullies or ‘gils’ on the North side of Hvammsheiði accessed from Laxárdalur. The route climbs through the ravine forming the climbers right branch of Vondagil and up the face at it’s head, finishing on the high plateau of Hvammsheiði. The first section which is not visible in the photo consisted of soloing around 350m of WI1+ to WI2+ terrain. The pitched climbing starts a short distance above the obvious junction with the shorter line to the right.

WI3+ 275m.
P1: WI3 30m,
P2: WI3+ 55m,
P3 WI2 60m,
P4: WI3+ 55m,
P5: WI3+ 55m,
P6: M3? 20m.

Rich Bell and Przemek Pakulniewicz, 14/03/2023.

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Svæði Lón
Tegund Ice Climbing

„Merkuráfoss“ WI 4

 

A fairly unique route featuring colourful spray ice. The line is direct starting a few metres right of the small cave climbing ‘cauliflowers’ in the lower half. Then the angle briefly eases before  launching up the large steep ‘mushrooms’ below the right end of the cornice in the upper section. WI4, 55m.

Rich Bell and Prokop Teper, 08/02/2022.

Klifursvæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Svæði Mörk / Merkurá
Tegund Ice Climbing

Consolation WI 3

Above the remains of the historic power station in the Merkurá gorge on the True Left. The route went up the cascade to the left of the cave like feature at the bottom. Left again there is a steeper WI4+ variation that looks good. Climbed in two shortish pitchs around WI3/3+. The top out is „mixed“ and you have to hunt hard for a top anchor.

Rich Bell & Adam Watson, 03/02/2020.

Klifursvæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Svæði Mörk / Merkurá
Tegund Ice Climbing

Selgil Af Hoffellsdalur WI 3+

The main ravine/gully system draining the North East flank of Hoffellstindur, through the major cliff bands starting just above the valley floor. Approximately 400m in length gaining 250m via a series of around eight „steps“ of wildly varying character. From wide cascades, easy runnels, to narrow steep gully ice. The longest pitch was around 40m.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 25/01/2021.

Klifursvæði Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Svæði Hoffellsdalur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Rauðárfoss WI 2

Situated in the amphitheater behind Systrastapi Rock when viewed from the highway. Access is easy – park near Kirkjubæjarstofa and follow the marked historic trail from the end of the 205 towards Systrastapi. We climbed the steeper righthand side which is closer to WI2+. This waterfall would make an ideal beginners lead.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 30/01/2021, one pitch of 50m+.

Klifursvæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Svæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Tegund Ice Climbing

Foco en llama azul. WI 4

Located a short way up Krossárgljúfur where a small side creek drops down the True Right wall. The top half of the route can be seen from the highway. The first section was of high quality and very sustained until a good rest is reached on the large obvious ledge before the final steps.  One pitch, WI4, 45m+.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 31/01/2021.

Klifursvæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Svæði Fljótshverfi
Tegund Ice Climbing

Last Light Dash WI 3

This route is located in the next side ravine beyond the ‘Dominos’ gully on the true right of the Merkurá valley.

Climbed in one long pitch. The route begins up WI3 steps, with straight forward footwork on fat ice even when other routes in the area are on the lean side. From the obvious constriction the route lays back to WI2 for approximately 30m for a total length of around 55m. (Note the first „step“ is hidden in the photo)

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 01/01/2021.

Klifursvæði Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Svæði Mörk / Merkurá
Tegund Ice Climbing