Icelandic

[Matteo]

Hi,
we decided to name the route
„Vinamissir“
FF Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, Þorsteinn Cameron and Matteo Meucci
15-10-2016
WI3 180m

• This reply was modified 8 years, 1 month síðan by Þorsteinn Cameron.

[Matteo]

Ciao Johannes,
scrivimi a teonetei at gmail.com
abito a RVK.
Matteo

[Matteo]

@svinafellsjokull
est side
sector „secret lagoon“ (proposed)
Rolling stones 110m WI4+
7/3/2016
Matteo Meucci and Hlynur Sigurjonsson
Approach: left the car at svinafells farm and we follow a path crossing the moraine of the glacier and then we walked in the frozen lagoon until reaching the line. 40min
Can be possible to approach from „batman “ access and then try to find a way trough the ridges.
descent: rappel or exit the gully and then turn right and try to follow the path to back to the farm. There is a big gully at some point with a big wooden bridge, TRY TO FIND IT!!! after that is just heading to the farm

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[Matteo]

@skaftafellsjokull
sector Sudur (visitor center side) approach about 45min
„Break a window“ WI4 70m
Hlynur sigurjonsson, kiddi sigurjonsson, matteo meucci on the 5/03/2016

in green in the sector picture is the Thorsteinn-bjartur line (hope it’s true)

• This reply was modified 8 years, 9 months síðan by Matteo.

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[Matteo]

@Eyjafjallajokull
on the 22/02/2016 Matteo and Bjoggi climbed „Fellsfoss“ 100m WI5+/6-

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[Matteo]

@bolaklettur
on 24/02/2016
line1 „Hard five“ M8/WI6+ albert leichtfried and benedikt purner
line 2 „take a walk on the other side of the stars“ WI4+ Matteo Meucci and Elias Holzenecht

• This reply was modified 8 years, 9 months síðan by Matteo.

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[Matteo]

@isklifur festival
H&M
pillar on the right (green) of the B4 line in Girnd (yellow)
4 pitches WI5+ 130m

• This reply was modified 8 years, 9 months síðan by Matteo.

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[Matteo]

@isklifur festival
Me and Halldor Fannar we climb three line at Glassur between F2 and F3 in the topos. From left WI4+/5 (30m), WI4+/5 (the thin line) and M6+ (top roped, rock first part then ice). Has been told me that probably the first two have been climbed in the past.

• This reply was modified 8 years, 9 months síðan by Matteo.

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[Matteo]

Hi,
couple of new route from Skaftafell, one from skaftafelljokull right side (visitor center side), the other from Svinafellsjokull left side (Svinafells side).
Pictures and topos in the next days!
Matteo

[Matteo]

Damn!
I forgot to write about @isklifurfestival:
H&M
pillar on the left of the B4 line in Girnd
4 pitches WI5+ 130m

[Matteo]

Hi,
short update then i’ll post some pictures later.
@icefestival: Me and Halldor Fannar we climb three line at Glassur between F2 and F3 in the topos. From left WI4+/5 (30m), WI4+/5 (the thin line) and M6+ (rock first part then ice). Has been told me that probably the first two have been climbed in the past.
@Eyjafjoll: Me and Bjoggi went monday the 22th behind Thorvaldseyri farm and climb Fellsfoss; Amazing route about 90m long. grade is still uncertain but fall around WI6 (more or less).
@Bolaklettur: I went today with Albert, Benni and Elias and climbed a new line „Take a walk on the other side of the Stars“ WI4+ 35m on the left of Matteo&Bergur (n°4)route (right then Aussie picking n°3). Albert and Benni bolted and roktpunkt a new line left of Muspellheimar. 2 pitches, M8 and WI5+/6 „Hard five“ (confidential notes, unconfirmed grade and name)
Stay tuned!
MAtteo

[Matteo]

Hi guys,
someone has room in the car for me?
i would leave on thursday and back on sunday (night) but i’m open to other solutions.
Let me know!
takkkkkkkk!
Matteo

[Matteo]

Maeti!!!
Sleeping bag, all breakfast and dinner!
Matteo

[Matteo]

Haehae,
Thorsteinn og Eg farid i Mulafjall i dag. Eg leid „Thor is back“ (FF, sja nya leidina) og Thorsteinn leid pitch1.
Matteo

[Matteo]

Hi all,
I ended to bolt a new line („Thor is back“) in Mulafjall on the spur on the left of „Fimm i fotu“; it’s about 37m and there are 13 bolt with belay in the middle and on top (middle one can be skipped but really high friction and can’t follow the leader on the crux).
Few cams can help but not necessary, I suggest 2BD, 1BD and .75BD for first pitch (can help on the long crack bolted a bit longer and to shorten the run out on the ledge) and 2BD and .5BD for the second (n°2 one the flake above the belay and .5BD on the crack of the crux).
Approach: straight from the parking lot on the „Fimm i fotu“ gully and then turn left and reach the spur. 40’min
Descent: A) From the belay turn right and walk on top of Mulafjall until reaching the slope of the normal route. B) rappel down from both of belay, recommended if 60m single rope. Then, see approach C) rappel down on one shot on the right of the line if 70m single rope o 2 half rope. Then, see approach.
Difficulties: 1P: M5/M5+ 2P: M6/M6+ both to be sent and confirmed.
Hope the pictures can help!
Thanks to Thorsteinn C.for help me on one of the bolting session!
Matteo

in pictures: red dot are bolts, yellow suggest cams position, green in wide view is „Fimm i fotu“, green in spur view is alternative first pitch trad-mixte, light blue is rappel with 70m rope or 2-half.

• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.
• This reply was modified 9 years, 1 month síðan by Matteo.

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