Icelandic

[Matteo]

On the 18th November went with Andrea and Kaspar in Leikfangaland Mulafjall and tried a couple of mixed projects. Ice is forming and some lines in Mulafjall are climbable

[Matteo]

With Andrea went to Hvannadalshnukur and climbed a new line on the NW face on the 22nd October. Approach from Hnappó
„Pocker ássana“ WI4 5 pitches

• This reply was modified 1 month síðan by Matteo.

[Matteo]

Climbed yesterday in Eastern part of Hlaðhamrar in Mulafjall.
Some lines are ok, ice was wet and was snowing. a lot of umbrellas formed. we started exploring a new sector of the cliff more east then Musarindill A1 after the gully.

[Matteo]

Climbed yesterday in Eastern part of Hlaðhamrar in Mulafjall.
Some lines are ok, ice was wet and was snowing. a lot of umbrellas formed. we started exploring a new sector of the cliff more east then Musarindill A1 after the gully.

[Matteo]

Climbed Kleifarfoss in Hvalfjordur. ok conditions.
went checking in Brynjudalur: looks Orion and Yringur are ok but the rest of the valley looks very thin and only easy grades are climbable (not WI4 and above).
Some lines in Mulafjall looks ok
Eilifsdalur also looks to have ice but could not understand well because the sun was just above the lines and couldn’t see much.
Vestrurbrunir Esja looks dry

[Matteo]

Went to Mulafjall today and climbed Scottish Leader M7 and Íste with mixed start M6
Looks conditions are good all over the crag but lines are forming

[Matteo]

Saturday went in Eyjafjöll and climbed „Daylightful “ WI5 left of Canada dry (new route)
Monday went in Glymsgill area and climbed „Serial hunter“ WI4 (new route)
Today went in Glymsgill and climbed the full Glymur waterfall from the bottom and on the top part on the right. Canyon is very easy at the moment with only a pool to be crossed carefully on the ice on the right.

[Matteo]

Hi,
prolific week in SKaftafell with Bart and Brook.
we climbed:
Hundafoss
Svartifoss
New line in Grænafjall left of Grænafjallsglifur 350m WI3/+
New line along the path to Skaftafellsjokull 60m WI2 (right of Shameless)
New line in Svinafell 30m WI4/+ left of BLika
Heimahagi WI3/+

Soon I’ll upload the new lines.
Conditions are very good with some lines that haven’t been formed for years.
Same story for the entire South coast and in particular Ejyafjoll.

[Matteo]

Hi, looks some holds broke down in the first 2 routes (dihedral and left ).
the routes are still possible but bit more insecure then before, in particular the dihedral.
I’ll try to fix them the sooner

If you brake something please let me know that I’ll try to fix ASAP.

[Matteo]

Went to Mulafjall today and climbed Fálki A8 in the topos. Slim conditions in the crag, just few climbable lines

[Matteo]

Went to Hrynjandi in Kjös today with Andrea and Silvia. Good conditions, very cold and slightly brittle ice.-12Cat the car.
We did 4 climbing pitches with 2 long transfert in the middle of 150m each.from the top we walked back going left to the summer houses where we left the car

[Matteo]

Route F in the topos

Attachments:

1. 

   THorisjokull-topos2022a-scaled.jpg
   

[Matteo]

Andrea and me went to Þorisjökull, tried Birkitréð but was too much rhyme. Then we went to the extreme right and climb „Istinto Apuano“ (Apuaniska eðlishvöt) M4 60m. The route follows the evident gully with some rock protections (BD2, BD1, pink tricam, n9 and n13 BD nuts).

[Matteo]

Hi,
all the routes have been climbed and grades are (from the right):

A D4, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 12 quickdraw needed)
B D5, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 3rd bolt has fixed quickdraw, 12 are needed)
N1 D5+, FA Matteo Meucci (dihedral, 12 quickdraw)
N2 D6+, FA Matteo Meucci (12 quickdraw)
N3 D8/8+, FA Matteo Meucci (first with fixed quickdraw, 8 quickdraw are needed)
N4 D7+/8, FA Matteo Meucci (8 quickdraw needed)
N5 D9/9+, FA Matteo Meucci (line in the full roof, 8 quickdraw needed)
N6 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, long green sling as fixed quickdraw, 6 needed)
N7 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed)
N8 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed, start from the left of the crag)
N9 D8, FA Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed, Blue sling and black carabiners)
N10 D6+/7, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed)
N11 D8+, FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed, Black sling and yellow carabiners)
N12 D8 FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed)

[Matteo]

Manage to send N12 yesterday, I think it is D8, very tricky. Long reaches and poor feet at the last bolt to cross the roof. 8 quickdraw needed

[Matteo]

Routes length:
1-5 is about 20m
6-7-8-9 are the same but the wall is so overhanging that when you lower you end 10m below the start, so would say 30m
10-12 are short, maybe 15m

[Matteo]

Went to Mulafjal with Andrea and climbed a new route in Leikfangland, Mother Earth M7+ on trad pre-placed.

[Matteo]

Went to Þilið today with Andrea and Matteo. we climbed two pitches and then rappelled down. there are big umbrellas and the cornice on top is huge. the entire sector looks in good conditions.
we left the car at the fence and took 2h for the approach.

[Matteo]

Went to Hvalfjordur-Reynivallaháls and climbed route n30 Nóngil https://www.isalp.is/en/problem/nongil with andrea and Matteo. we did 9 pitches, all about 50m and only one of 30m. except one, the rest they have steps to climb. Very nice route, highly recommended. We did the left branch on the top.
Carpark at Stepji natural monument. Approach 10min and descent by a slope east then the route (there is also a gully that can be used).

[Matteo]

Went to Hvalfjordur at Hvamsvik and climbed what is most likely Stufur WI3. The pillar is hollow and has water inside, after today is going to be really dangerous to climb it. More potential for the spot. Mind the tide to access the place.

[Matteo]

Went to Villingadalur with Andrea, brook and Matteo yesterday and climbed Hades and Kerberos. good conditions even though ice is crusty most of the times.

[Matteo]

Went to Blikdalur and climbed 2 new routes with Andrea. we did the approach from Esjustofa, took 2,5h and 2h back. Conditions are good, very hard snow on the approach and every slope. we used a gully on the right to descend and climb the second route and the attempt of the 3rd.
First line: WI4 40m, WI3 40m, WI3 30m, 110m belay on rocks on top.
Second line: WI3+ 55m, WI3 55m, 110m belay on ice on the top

[Matteo]

Went to North ridge of Skessuhorn today with Andrea. good conditions. the NW wall instead looks very dry, maybe climbable.
We did a drive on the way back, looks there are many lines to climb a bit everywhere. high elevation is better.

[Matteo]

Went to Blikdalur yesterday and climbed Vegvísir with Andrea. We choose the approach from the truck scale next to the Hvalfjordur tunnel and took us 3h; first 45-60 min you follow a jeep track then is nothing to follow except staying close to the stream. Need to cross a lot of small gully and stream.
The route is fun and we did in 3 pitches; first a solid WI4 looks like a slab (40m), then a WI4+ of a pillar (30m). The last one cross some umbrellas and it is quite tricky (WI4, 30m). Descent is by a slope on the left of the route. We left the backpack at the bottom. The way back is is just slightly quicker (2.5h). There is another approach form Esja Steinn, going over the mountain and lower to the route; watch out at avalanche terrain! Probably slightly shorter.

[Matteo]

With Andrea went to Weird Girl in Skálafell.
The route is a bit shorter then picture because of snow collecting in the gully. Good rock to belay on the top on the left.
very short climbing at the moment, 30mish, not suggested.

We did also a scouting drive in Hvalfjordur and Borgarnes area.
-Kjos there is something but looks in November conditions
-Mulafjall not that much but easy lines are probably climbable
-Villingadalur looks in good conditions
-Skessuhorn we couldn’t see
-Bolaklettur looks in early season conditions
-Grafarfoss probably climbable
-Buahamrar is getting there

[Höfundur]

Svör