Múlafjall is in the bottom of Hvalfjörður, 60 km from Reykjavík

Svæði A – Hlaðhamrar
From a big obvious gully and east towards Glymur. Here there is a lot of routes but very little documentation due to historical reasons. Probably unclimbed routes as you go further to the left.

A1. Músarrindill – WI 3
A2. I love Backup – WI 3
A3. WW3 – WI 3
A4. Þriðjudagstilboð – WI 3+
A5. Í kjólinn fyrir jólin – WI 3
A6. Veðmálið – WI 3
A7. Hvítir hrafnar – WI 4
A8. Fálki – WI 3
A9. Lundi – WI 4
A10. Hidden corner – WI 3
A11. Hollow wall – WI 4
A11a. Ávangur – WI 3+
A12. Hlaðhamrar Gully – WI 3+

Svæði B – Kötlugróf

From Testofan (Sector C) and to the big gully that cuts the cliffs in two.

B1. Dúna amma – WI 3
B1a. Katla – WI 3
B1b. Hekla – WI 3
B1c. Askja – WI 3
B1d. Baula – WI 3
B2. Ýlir – WI 4+
B3 Stöng – WI 4+
B4 Skófla – WI 4+
B5. Tóti afi – WI 3
B6. Scottish Leader – M7
B6a Famous Grouse – WI4+
B6b. Höfuðbani – WI 4
B7. Sótanautur – WI 3+
B8. Guy – WI 5
B8a. Lads – WI 5
B9. Drjúpandi – WI 3
B9a. Hættusvæði – WI 3
B10. Járntjaldið – WI 4
B10a. Gjörgæsla – WI 4+
B10b. Eimmánuður – WI 3
B10c. Í ljósi sögunnar – WI 5
B11. Ljótur piltur – WI 3+
B11a. Kóróna – WI 5
B12. Lygakvenndi – WI 3+
B13. Thor is Back – M 6+
B14. Þursabit – WI 2/3
B14a. Baun í bala – WI 4
B15. Fimm í fötu – M 5+
B16. Chinese Hoax – M 6+
B16a. Fimmtíu og sjö – M 6
B17. Svikinn um bjór – WI 4
B18. Fjúkandi – WI 4/5
B19. Heiladauður – M 7
B19.5. Misskilningurinn – WI 2
B20. Rjúkandi – WI 4
B21. Hoka Hey – M 6
B22. Helgarpabbi – M 5

Svæði C – Testofan

This sector is with out a doubt the most popular in Múlafjall, even if we count Brynjudalur, at the other side of the mountain. The sector is named after its crown jewel Íste, meaning Ice tea and the Tea lounge. There you can find other classics like Mömmuleiðin, Pabbaleiðin and easy beginers routes like Gísli, Eiríkur and Helgi

C1. Espresso – M6
C2. Apagredda – M 5
C3. Íste – WI 5
C4. Earl Grey – M7
C5. Pabbaleiðin – M7
C6. Mömmuleiðin – M6
C7. Múlakaffi – M7+
C8. Keisarinn – M4+ eða WI 3/4
C9. Fyrirburinn – M4+ eða WI 3/4
C10. Frumburðurinn – M4+ eða WI 3/4
C11. Örverpið – M4+ eða WI 3/4
C12. Bestur vetur – M 4+
C13. Gísli – WI 3+
C14. Eiríkur – WI 3+
C15. Helgi – WI 3+

Svæði D – Leikfangaland
Second most popular sector after Testofan. Here you can find classic routes like Rísandi, Stígandi and Frosti.

D1. Rísandi eystri – WI 4
D2. Rísandi vestari – WI 4
D3. Stígandi – WI 4+
D4. Fengitíminn – WI 5
D5. Funi – WI 4
D6. Frosti – WI 5
D7. Mind Power – D 7
D8. Dvali – WI 2/3
D9. Fear is 90 – M 6
D10. Kids in the Playground – M 4
D11. Gallblaðran – WI 3
D12. Botnlanginn – WI 3+
D13. Engar skrúfur –  WI 4+

Svæði E – Kaffistofan og Votaberg

Kaffistofan is between Leikfangaland and Votaberg. It is a similar sector to Leikfangaland, a small gully packed with routes.

E1. Ekkert te – WI 3
E2. Afmæliskaka – WI 4
E3. Bara Kaffi – WI 4
E4. Ristretto – WI 4/M 5
E5. Corretto – WI3+/M4
E6. Americano – WI3
E7. Latte Macchiato – WI2+

As far as Ísalp knows,  no one had climbed in Votaberg until 2019 when Guðmundur Ísak and Sigurður Ýmir found the massive rock arch.

E8. Skoska leiðin – M 3/ WI 3+

Svæði F – Svartisteinn

The cliffs just by the carpark. Nice to warm up, do a full day of drytooling or just to break up the hike to the main cliffs on top.

F1. Hávamál – WI 2/3
F2. Sjávarmál – WI 2/3
F2,5 Tungumál – WI 2/3
F3. The Seventh Life of Cats – M 4
F4. Mávamál – WI 4
F5. Þorskur á þurru landi – M 6
F6. Ísaðar gellur – M 6
F7. Messaguttinn – M 6/7

The Westfjords are divided into: Barðaströnd, Arnarfjörður, Dýrafjörður, Ísafjarðardjúp and  Hornstrandir

A very accessible guidebook has been made for the area and all the information here com from there. The guidebook was first printed in ÍSALPs annual magazine 2015 and a PDF versoin can be found here.

© Sigurður Tómas Þórisson

The ice climbing routes in Arnarfjörður are of all shapes and sizes, from WI 2 up to WI 6 and from 20m up to 400m. The mountaintops are in 500-600m altitude so there are some potentials for even longer routes.

Most of the registered routes was climbed in the Ice climbing festival in 2009 and 2015 but in between there was a foreign team that did quite a few first accents (Kitty Calhoun/Jay Smith and co 2014).

Most of the obvious lines in sectors B, C and D have been climbed. Sectors A and E-I have barely been touched even though one line here and there has been climbed.

A Bíldudalsfjall

A1 Thread Bear or Threadless – WI 4
A2 G20 – WI 4
A3 Skolli – WI 4+
A4 Skuggabaldur – WI 5

B Svarthamrar

B1 Seiðskrattinn (The Warlock) – WI 5+
B2 Skotlínan – WI 5
B3 Firring (Alienation) – WI 5
B4 Vatnsberinn (Aquarius) – WI 6
B5 Kertasmiðjan – WI 5
B6 12″ Mottó – WI 4+/M 4
B7 Bíldudals grænar baunir – WI 4+
B8 Pirraði fýllinn – WI 4+

C Hvestudalur

C1 Hafmaður (Merman) – WI 4+
C2 Fjörulalli (Shore Laddie) – WI 4+
C3 Sæskrímsli – WI 4+
C4 Geitungur – WI 4+
C5 Nykur (The Nuggle) – WI 3
C6 Skeljaskrímsli – WI 3
C7 Grautnefur – WI 4
C7a Þorláksmessa – WI 4
C8 Fjandafæla (The Exorcist) – WI 5
C9 Rigor Mortis – WI 5+
C9a Catch and release – WI 4
C10 Skepnan deyr – WI 4
C11 Hrafninn flýgur – WI 4
C12 Glyðran – WI 4

D Innrihvilft

D1 Óðinn – WI 5
D2 Loki – WI 5
D3 Hrymur – WI 4
D4 Blindsker – WI 5
D5 Naglfar – WI 4+
D6 Musculus – WI 4+
D7 Skotfélagið – WI 4
D8 Jötnar – WI 5
D9 Fenrir – WI 5+
D10 Hel – WI 5
D11 Ragnarök – WI 3
D12 Bergmálið – WI 5
D13 Þjassi – WI 2
D14 The Tandem War Elephant – WI 5

E Ytrihvilft

E1 Sea Monster – WI 5

F Fífustaðasalur

F1 Screwed – WI 4+
F2 Arctic Fox – WI 4
F3 Pink Panther – WI 5-

G Selárdalur

G1 Ælan – WI 4

H Stakar leiðir

Sound of Summer – WI 4
Lítil hjörtu – WI 3
Feelgood – WI 3

I Byltufjall

I1 Hrímþurs – WI 5

J Dynjandi

J1 Dynjandi – WI 3