Öræfajökull is the third part of the Öræfi area, along with the low land areas Öræfi, Vestur and Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit. The sectors of Öræfajökull are:

Þumall

Detailed description for the approach is included with the Classic route. Only two routes are known up to Þumall (the Thumb), but most likely it is possible to climb the peak in more ways.

Black line: Classic route
Red line: South of the flake

Miðfellstindur

The classical hiking route to Miðfellstindur is for the most part the same as to Þumall, but once you get onto Vatnajökull you spiral around Miðfellstindur an top from the northen side. Miðfellstindur has one alpine route that goes directly up the south face and one ice climb next to the hiking route

1. SA veggur Miðfellstinds – WI 3 – 400m
2. Jólatré –  WI 5 -180m

Skarðatindar

Approach is over Skaftafellsjökull, either from Hafrafell side or maybe from the Skaftafell side if the glacier doesn’t retreat much more.

Rauð lína: Austurveggur – TD+
Green line: Jökulélé – TD+
Hægri mynd:  End of the Line – TD+

Hrútfjallstindar

1. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like it’s usually done) – PD.
2. Smjörfingur – TD+, AI5.
A. SV-hryggurinn upp á Vesturtind (like in the first accent) – PD.
3. 10 norskar stelpur – TD, AI 4.
4. Orginallinn – PD, II+.
B. Orginallinn (with the ridge) – PD, II+.
4,5. Lucky Leif (blue) – WI 5+.
5. Scotsleið – TD.
6. Íshröngl – TD, WI 4/5.
7. Postulínsleiðin – TD, WI 5.
8. Stóragil – PD.

Tindaborg
Also known as Fjallkirkja, Kirkja (The Church) or even Tröllkirkja. This summit is made of pretty bad rock and is only climbable in winter conditions. Due to it’s height the winter conditions can last through middle of May.

NA-hlíð Kirkjunar– AI 4
Öræfasýn – AI 4

Hvannadalshnjúkur

Rauð lína – Beina brautin – D – WI 4
Græn lína – Vinamissir – WI 3
Gul lína – Vesturhlíð –
Appelsínugul lína – The italian job – D – WI 4
Ekki á mynd – Orginal austurveggur – D – WI 5

Heljargnípa

NA hryggur Heljargnípu

Mávabyggðir

Suðurhlíð Fingurbjargar

Esjufjöll

Vitað er um eina leið upp tindinn Snók.

Suðurhlíð og SA hryggur Snóks

Allar upplýsingar og myndir eru fengnar úr leiðavísinum “Kaldakinn” eftir Sigurð Tómas Þórisson og þakkar Ísalp kærlega fyrir afnotin

The climbing

The first routes in Kaldakinn were established in the mid-90s, but the bulk was established during the Alpine Club´s ice climbing festivals in 2001 and 2007. The most famous route in the area is Stekkjastaur (A10), graded WI5/5+/6/6+ (depending on conditions). One of the most striking ice lines in the whole country and a must climb for any climber of that caliber and above. Several testpieces were established during an international celebrity visit at the 2007 ice festival. Professional ice climbers Albert Leichtfried and Markus Bendler climbed Captain Hook (M9/9+) and a handful of hard ice lines. Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy esablished several WI5+ to WI6+ routes and did a monster 1000m linkup day with all routes WI5 or harder. The Kaldakinn area currently boast roughly 60 registered routes, ranging in difficulty from WI3-WI6 (and an M9/9+) and there are still a handful of unclimbed lines of varying difficulties. Most of the unclimbed lines are however either quite hard or do not form except in very good ice conditions. The lenght of the routes ranges from 20m to almost 200m and everything in between of course. Be wary of avalanche risk and of rocks falling from above, especially in sector C (“the trenches”), in particular during a thaw and as spring approaches (with the sun warming up the dark cliffs). In most cases, the easiest and safest descent is via a rappel on a V-thread at the top of the routes. It is possible to walk off above sector A, but you have to walk almost to Björg to reach the descent gully (and there can be avalanche risk on the slopes above A).

Season

Iceland in general is very unpredictable in terms of ice and weather conditions in the winter. The best chance of good quality ice is in January/February. February being a better choice due to longer days and more ice buildup (NB the days are very short in Dec/Jan). March can give good conditions as well with even longer days but the chances of a thaw are starting to turn as spring approaches.

The sectors

O. Björg

Fyrsti sectorinn á leiðinni út að sjó, er alveg við bæinn Björg.

O0. Að Björgum – WI 3
O1. Konný – WI 4
O2. Hlöðver – WI 4+/5
O3. Heimasætan – WI 3

A. Stekkjastaur

A0. X-files – WI 4 / M 6 / WI 6
A1. Wish you were here – WI 6+
A2. Arctic pillar – WI 5+
A3. Sólhvörf – WI 4
A3,5. Stönt hrútur – WI 4
A4. Captin Hook WI 4 / M 9/9+
A5. Flowers and Puffins – WI 3+
A5,5. Salómon svarti – WI 4+/5
A6. Danska leiðin – WI 4+
A7.Swiming in Burning Soup – WI 5+
A8. Tangó kálfanna – WI 4+ 
A8,5. Veggfóður – WI 6 / M 6
A9. Ræsið – WI 3+
A10. Stekkjastaur – WI 5+
A11. Lost in Iceland – WI 5+
A12. Butter and Onions – WI 5+

B. Grind (Lust)

B1. Girnd – WI 5
B2. Sýnishornið – WI 5
B3. Græðgi – WI 5
B3,5. H&M – WI 5+
B4. Upprisa svínana – WI 4+
B5. Kostulegir postular – WI 4+
B5,5. Have no fear, eat Skyr – M7
B6. E300 – WI 5
B7. E222 – WI 5
B8. Sóðakjaftur – WI 5
B9. Öskubuska -WI 4

C. Rennurnar (The trenches)

C1. Gleymskan – WI 4
C2. Drífa – WI 5
C3. Frygð – WI 5
C4. Miðnæturhraðlestin – WI 4
C5. Flagan – WI 3
C6. Hlæjandi fýlar – WI 4
C7. Íssól – WI 4

D. The Gullies

D0. Heita kartaflan – WI 3
D0,5. Vörtusvínið – WI 3
D1. …og heilagur andi – WI 3+
D2. Faðir og sonur… – WI 3

E. Dramb (Pride)

E1. Meyjarhaftið – WI 4
E2. Mr. Freeze – WI 6
E3. Knúsumst um stund – WI 4+
E4. Blár dagur – WI 4
E5. Öfund – WI 5
E6. Leti – WI 5
E7. Reiði – WI 5
E8. Dramb – WI 5

F. Glassúr

F1. Limrusmiður – WI 4
F2. Í votri gröf – WI 4+
F2,5. Skotgrafarfótur – WI 4+
F2,6. Slefið – WI 5
F3. Maldon salt – WI 4
F4. Salt í sárin – WI 4
F5. Remúlaðisleikjó – WI 4+
F6. Skegg spámannsins – WI 4+
F7. Synir hafsins – WI 4+
F8. Glassúr – WI 4+
F9. Úr djúpinu – WI 5
F10. Við fjöruborðið – WI 5
F11. Sex on the beach – WI 5+
F12. Shooters – WI 4+
F13. Tower og Ágúll – WI 5

Rauðsgil

Ofan við Laxfoss sem er í Reykjadal við Kleppjárnsreikir í Borgarfirði.

Teitsgil

Við Húsafell er flott gil sem býður uppá nokkrar skemmtilegar leiðir á bilinu WI-3 til WI-5. Oft eru þó bara WI-4 leiðir í aðstæðum, en flestar eru af þeirri gráðu.

Háifoss er foss í Fossárdal, innst í Þjórsárdal, er talinn þriðji hæsti foss landsins, 122 metrar á hæð. Við hlið hans er fossinn Granni .

Þar eru fjórar leiðir.

Leiðarvísir fenginn með leyfi frá Climbing.is

http://climbing.is/svaedi/haifoss