Istinto Apuano M 4

Route F in the photo

The route follows the evident gully with some rock protections (BD2, BD1, pink tricam, n9 and n13 BD nuts).

M4 60m

„Istinto Apuano“ could be translated as The Apuan instinct,  where the Apuan Alps are a mountain range in northen Italy in Andrea’s and Matteo’s home turf.

FA: Andrea Fiocca  & Matteo Meucci, november 2022

Crag Kaldidalur
Sector Þórisjökull
Type Mixed Climbing

(Icelandic) Greinar í ársrit Ísalp 2022

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Ágæti Ísalpari

Hefur þú sögu að segja? Eitthvað magnað, fyndið, erfitt, lærdómsríkt og/eða rosalega áhugavert tengt háfjallamennsku, sportklifri, fjallaskíðum, ísklifri, dótaklifri eða grjótglímu?

Ritstjórn Ísalp leitar að greinahöfundum til að skrifa greinar í ársrit Ísalp 2022 og við ætlum okkur stóra hluti. Ríkur vilji er til þess að birta greinar sem sýna dýpt og breidd íslenskar fjallamennsku sem höfðar til stærri hóps en venjulega. Þannig viljum við fá skrif frá reynsluboltum og nýliðum, ungum sem öldnum, harðkjörnum og kósíklifrurum frá öllum kynjum og allt þar á milli.

Við viljum heyra hetjusögur, klaufabárðasögur, tilfinningarússíbana, viðtöl, græjuhorn, fræðslu, hugljómarnir, upplifanir og fleira.

Það er stefna ritstjórnar að veita greinahöfundum stuðning í gegnum allt ferlið, þannig að þau sem hafa góða sögu að segja en eru feimin við að skrifa geta fengið stuðning og uppbyggilega ritstjórn í gegnum allt ferlið. Allt með það endanlega markmið að fá margar og vandaðar greinar í ársritið.

Rúsínan í pylsuendanum er svo sú að allar greinar sem birtast munu taka þátt í greinakeppni Ísalp, sem er nýjung. Hlutlaus og fagleg þriggja manna dómnefnd mun lesa greinarnar og velja eina sem mun hljóta verðlaun og birtingu fremst í blaðinu.

Ritstjórn mun taka við tillögum að greinum fram til 22. nóvember og lokaskil á greinum er um miðjan desember. Allar tillögur skal senda í gegnum skráningarform hér: https://forms.gle/Cqy9JpfXXajCkxJY7

Brunnhorn

Leið sem spíralar sig upp á miðtind Brunnhorns.

200 metrar, AD+ III 5.4, 6 spannir og ein gönguspönn

Klifrið byrjar frá söðlinum í nyrðra skarði Brunnhorns.

  1. spönn: Liggur upp bratt haft með grasi, síðan eftir syllukerfi, fyrst til vinstri og svo til hægri þar til komið er að stórum kletti. Þar má gera stans á góðri syllu.
  2. spönn: Hliðrun um heila línulengd út til hægri eftir grónum syllum, fram hjá bröttum vegg og litlum steinboga. Stans undir enda veggjarins.
  3. spönn: Stutt en bratt og frekar tæpt haft sem þarf nokkrar taugar í.
  4. spönn: Hryggur sem liggur í átt að tindinum, aftur fram hjá steinboganum og inn að litlum vegg sem gleypir við bergtryggingum.
  5. spönn: Ganga upp sundurskorna grasbrekku. Stans undir höfuðvegg hornsins. Næst fikarar leiðin sig réttsælis um tindinn.
  6. spönn: Hliðrun um línulengd eftir mis tæpum syllum og endar á rúmgóðri syllu undir frekar stuttu en bröttu, grónu og mjög lausu hafti. Haftið skyggir á toppinn. Klifrið er sleipt og laust, sprungurnar tryggjanlegar en óvíst hverju tryggingarnar halda. Haftið endar á litlum toppahrygg norðan í tindinum.
  7. spönn: Er rétt tæp línulengd. Án efa tæknilega erfiðasta klifrið á leiðinni en loksins eru berggæðin orðin ástættanleg og hægt að koma fyrir sæmilegum tryggingum.

Ítarleg umfjöllun um leiðina birtist í ársriti Ísalp fyrir árið 2021.

FF: Valdimar Harðarsson, Guðni Bridde og Björgvin Richardsson, 1994

Crag Vestrahorn
Sector Brunnhorn
Type Alpine

Annual magazine party and general meeting

On the 29. of september the board of Ísalp will hold the annual general meeting and right after and right after the party for our annual magazine that is finally being issued.

According to the clubs laws, the schedule is a follows:

  1. Election of the meetings moderator.
  2. Report from the board
  3. Annual accounts presented
  4. Changes to the laws
  5. Election of the clubs president
  6. Election of a new board
  7. Election of the line-up committee
  8. Election of two account inspectors
  9. Decide the annual membership fee
  10. Other

Those who have paid the annual membership fee have a valid vote at the meeting.
Candidacy shall be sent to the line up committee (runathor@gmail.com) before 26. of sptember but empty seats can be offered on the meeting it self.
All propositions for changes to the laws should be sent to the board (stjorn@isalp.is) before 26. of september.

Location: Bryggjan brugghús klukkan 19:00

Available spots in the board

Four spots are available in the board, President, Treasurer and two spots as Co-director.
Are you the (or do you know of) the next board member of Ísalp.
Being on the board is not a huge amount of work and the board always consists of great and driven individuals that want to build up and advance mountaineering in Iceland.
Aplication can be sent to the line-up committy, Rúna, Sissi and Freysi (runathor@gmail.com, sissi@askur.org, freskur@gmail.com) and/or stjorn@isalp.is

Gratitude

Route number 3 – Gratitude

AD, WI3 80m

Vestri Hnappur is one of the peaks of Öræfajökull. It is located on the south rim of Öræfajökull. The peak is 1851m and you can enter the climb around 1700m.

In order to access this peak, we traveled along the antenna access road behind Foss Hotel Glacier Lagoon and up to about 800 meters. We came to Stigárjökull at about 1000 meters and roped up from there to the base of the Vestri Hnappur. This ascent was done in April so there were almost no exposed crevasses on the way up to Vestri Hnappur.

This climb is between both Einhyringar and Gnar for Breakfast. This path follows the avalanche gully, which is slightly steep but somewhat mellows out after the initial 3 meter steeper section. From there, it’s about a 50degree snow climb until the section just below the summit, which is the last tricky area until the walk to the top.

Overall, it’s not very changing climb but the lack of reliable protection makes it one to think about. It would do you well to carry 3 snow pickets and use 1 as an intermediate belay and the other 2 to make a bomber anchor to belay up the second.

Lastly, why ‘Gratitude’?

Being in this country has been a pleasure beyond belief. So much opportunity exists here to learn and grow as an alpinist and a guide. This climb goes out to all the Icelandic alpinists both current and past, who have laid the foundation that allows us to play in this amazing alpine environment.

* As pictured, route # 1 is ” Einhyringar ”, route # 2 is “Gnar for Breakfast”, and route #3 is “Gratitude”

Michael Reid, Julian O’Neil, and Natalia Bucior – 23 April 2022

Pictured is of the first leading the pitch.

Crag Öræfajökull
Sector Vestari Hnappur
Type Alpine

BANFF Mountain Film Festival 2022 – Iceland

Takið kvöldin frá! Íslenski Alpaklúbburinn ætlar að sjá fyrir sannkallaðri fjallaveislu á BANFF Mountain Film Festival kvikmyndahátíðinni í Bíó Paradís þann 10. og 12. maí kl 21:00. Kvikmyndahátíðin er sannarlega góð upphitun fyrir sumarið með fullri dagskrá af fjallamennsku, klifri, skíðum, fjallahjólum og fleiru.
Meðlimir Ísalp geta sótt afsláttarkóða hjá stjorn@isalp.is
Við mælum með að fólk mæti snemma í Bíó Paradís og hafi það gaman saman, hægt verður að tryggja sér Ísalp derhúfuna og tilboð verða á barnum og veitingasölunni.
Ísalp þakkar GG sport og Íslenskum Fjallaleiðsögumönnum fyrir að gera hátíðina mögulega.
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The Icelandic Alpine Club ISALP celebrates the Banff Centre Mountain Film Festival on May 10th and 12th at 9 o’clock at Bíó Paradís, Hverfisgata. The festival includes films focusing on rock climbing, alpine climbing, skiing, mountain biking, running and more.
Isalp members can get a discount code at stjorn@isalp.is
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Myndir / Films:
Þriðjudagur, 10. maí 21:00
The Slabs
EM
Exit the North Pole
The Mystery
Swissway to Heaven
INSIDE – A Hole New Ski Experience
Fimmtudagur, 12. maí 21:00
Follow the Light
ASCEND: Reframing Disability in the Outdoors
Link Sar
Learning to Drown
The Farmer
Reel Rock15: Action Directe
Maneuvers
JURRA – The Guardians of the Pole
Girls Gotta Eat Dirt
Markus Eder’s The Ultimate Run

Basalt Route M 7

Do to Stuðlagil being a very popular tourist spot and beautiful place that needs to be protected, Ísalp suggest that more dry routes shouldn’t be added to the  walls and this route should only be repeated delicately and with the utmost care. 

Drytooling route upp the midde of the basalt collumn wall in Stuðlagil. Protected with natural protection.

FA: Dani Arnold & Martin Echser 8. February 2022

Crag Fljótsdalshérað
Sector Stuðlagil
Type Mixed Climbing

New area, Tröllaskagi

Recently three new routes were logged. One in Héðinsfjörður and two in Siglufjörður. Since ice and alpine climbing is sparsely distributed around Tröllaskagi, it was decided to merge those new routes with the old areas Ólafsfjarðarmúli and Svarfaðardalur (Svarfaðardalur, Búrfellshyrna, Kerling og Skíðadalur).

The new climbing area is called Tröllaskagi and there under you can find all the previously established routes from the mentioned areas, now as sectors.

Light Blue Route WI 4+

The route starts just to the left of the “Blue route” but begins with a traverse to the left. Then climb a 10m (WI4+) vertical section of ice (which can be coated with a thin layer of snow). After this, traverse again to the left and set up an anchor. This is on a solid ledge and the route “Kiddi” starts there, a bit further to the left.  But instead of heading there traverse back to the right and then straight up a 20m (WI4+) vertical section of good blue ice.  After this section there is about 30m (WI3+) of climbing with alternating ice and snow.  During the first ascent a v-thread in good ice was built underneath the rock outcrop and the route rappelled on two 60m ropes. There was a large cornice of snow above (no ice) and the rock provided psychological shelter.

The name of the route is a reference to the “Blue Route” and the fact that ice had a lighter shade of blue.

60m

FA: Halldór Fannar og Ágúst Kristján Steinarrsson, Feb. 17th, 2022

Crag Brattabrekka
Sector Austurárdalur
Type Ice Climbing

Video