The Gift M 7+

Leiðir

Route number 70

Two pitches, the first a steep M 7/8, and the later M 6 to WI 5/6, short mix section over to a long, steep and thin ice. 120 scramble to the top after that.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Þorsteinn Cameron, 06.03 2017

Crag Esja
Sector Hrútadalur
Type Mix Climbing

The North Face Athlete Photo show!

Fréttir

On thursday we’re going to have one of the most epic lectures ÍSALP has ever seen!
Tim Kemple, Renan Oztruk, Anna Pfaff, Hansjörg Auer and Samuel Elias are all in the country and have graciously offered to give ÍSALP a photo show next thursday at 20:00 at Centerhotel Plaza við Ingólfstorg
Aðalstræti 4 – 101 Reykjavík

Many of you might know Tim Kemple from his previous project in Iceland: Ice Climbing – The Iceland Trifecta https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79s5BD0301o
Renan Oztruk, also from the Camp4 collective, is here to climb and help with the project. Many of you may have seen him in Jimmy Chin’s film Meru where they climbed the Sharks Fin with Conrad Anker.

With them they have:
Anna Pfaff – Just before she came to Iceland she put up an amazing new route with Will Mayo called Dreamline WI6+. See the video herehttp://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/first-ascent-of-dreamline-wi-6-1-260-feet-newfoundland
She has also put up incredible and hard new routes all over the globe. You can read more about her exploits on her website http://www.annapfaff.com/ascents/

Hansjörg Auer – Many of you have probably heard of Hansjörg. He achieved notoriety with his audacious free solo of The Fish 7b+ on the Marmolada south face. See a video of that silly business herehttps://vimeo.com/30428423
He has done lots of hard routes on the Marmolada and has put up some of the hardest including Bruderliebe 8b+ 800m. Apart from that Hansjörg is one of the most skilled mountaineers of our day with hard big routes under his belt in Pakistan and Nepal. Read more about his story on http://www.hansjoerg-auer.at/

Samuel Elias – Samuel is a very strong climber from the states. He has put up rock climbing routes up to the grade of 5.14b and mix climbs up to M12. Here you can see his first ascent of American Hustle 5.14b in Oliana.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzgd5SGnkM8

It should be quite clear that missing this event is like skipping christmas so we expect to see you all there!

Link to the event on Facebook

Góður mosi M 5

Leiðir

Fyrsta leiðin af vonandi mörgum í Holtsdal. Veggurinn í Holtsdal snýr í norðvestur og fær því nánast enga sól. Þarna er slatti af flæðandi vatni, eitthvað af því gæti verið snjóbráð, en næsti vetur mun leiða það í ljós. Fullt af flottum línum sem gætu dottið í flottar aðstæður. Einnig er bergið furðulega gott á vissum stöðum og möguleiki er á sport eða dótaklifri.

Þessi leið var frumfarin í frekar tæpum aðstæðum. Ísinn var nánast ekkert fastur við bergið og mosinn var ekki frosinn í neðri og brattari hluta leiðarinnar. Eftir brattasta hluta leiðarinnar var mosinn gadd freðinn, sem var mjög kærkomið.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Róbert Halldórsson 05.03 2017

Crag Eyjafjöll
Sector Holtsdalur
Type Mix Climbing

Veðrastapi

Leiðir

Veðrastapi is a prominent rock in the mountains west of Hof in Öræfi. It is in altitude of 806 meters, rising 30-40 meter above its surrounding. It was first climbed in 22nd January 2000, by Helgi Borg Jóhannsson, Jason Paur and Einar R. Sigurðsson. It is unbelievable that no one has climbed it before since it looks quite good from the main road. I know of two previous attempts but at least one of that team turned back because the rock is very rotten and loose. Helgi Borg, who lead the successful climb graded it II, that is fairly easy climbing, but mentally hard because of there are almost no safe handholds.

FF: Helgi Borg, Jason Paur and Einar R. Sigurðsson 22.01 2000

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Hofsfjöll
Type Alpine

Bæjarlæksfoss WI 3

Leiðir

The line the climber is climbing

This is the main waterfall in Bæjargil in Kvísker. We parked the car at Stöðuvatn lake and walked across the ridge between the lake and the gorge Bæjargil, and descended down to the route. After the climb we could walk down a hiking trail down the cliffs east of the gorge.

The first pitch is 20 meter of nice WI 3. Then we had to walk around a corner in the gorge. Careful not to break through and fall into the stream. There was another 15 meter WI 3 wall there, and some easy steps higher up. We walked up from the gorge close to the small dam that collects water for the power station down at lake Stöðuvatn.

FF: Matthildur Unnur Þorsteinsdóttir og Einar Öræfingur

7/2 2009

Crag Öræfi, Austur og Suðursveit
Sector Kvísker
Type Ice Climbing

Gasfróði WI 4

Leiðir

Route number 3. (green)

Grasfróði is just about 100 meters to the left from Fróðafoss and it only takes about 5 minutes to walk up to it from the car. (Straight up from the house Fróðasker in Hof). This is a 50 meter WI4 route first climbed by

FA: Einar Sigurðsson and Mikko Nikkinen on January 23rd 1998.

 

Crag Öræfi, Vestur
Sector Hof
Type Ice Climbing

Ice Climbing Festival Cancelled

Fréttir

We are terribly sorry to inform everyone that next weekends Ice Climbing Festival in the east fjords has been cancelled due to poor conditions.
However, as we have just received 4 keen climbers from the Alpine Club of Pisa we will be going out and chasing the psyche this weekend and we invite anyone who wants to join us along for the fun! More details on that plan will be advertised over the next few days.
On wednesday evening we are also going to have a get together at Klifurhusid. The guys from Pisa will introduce the climbing there and this is a must see for anyone who wants to apply to go climbing on behalf of ISALP in Italy. There will be beer, pizza and new dry tooling routes!

Akureyri

Klifursvæði

Svæðið í kringum Akureyri hentar einstaklega vel til útivistar. Akureyringar hafa príðis góða aðstöðu til að kíkja á skíði, fjallahjól og fjallgöngur. Einnig hafa þeir sportklifursvæðið Munkaþverá og steina til að stunda grjótglímu hingað og þangað í námunda við bæinn.

Í Kjarnaklettum eru nokkrar gamlar dótaklifurleiðir.

Eitthvað hefur verið ísklifrað í kringum bæinn og þá helst í Kjarnaskógi en líka í Munkaþverárgilinu, innar en sportklifurleiðirnar að sjálfsögðu. Svo aðal sectorar Akureyrar eru:

Kjarnaskógur
Þrjú áberandi klettabelti  eru fyrir ofan tjaldsvæðið Hamra. Frá suðri til norðurs eru þetta Langiklettur, Arnarklettur og Krosklettur. Eitthvað er af dótaklifri í Arnarklettum, ber þar helst að nefna leiðina Indjánann sem hefur staðið til að bolta um einhvern tíma sökum þess hve illtryggjanleg hún er. Á veturna myndast ís á vissum stöðum í Langaklett sem heimamenn, sem og aðrir hafa nýtt til ís- og mixklifurs.

  1. Kaldi – M7
  2. Ónefnd – WI 4?
  3. Ónefnd – WI 3?

Glerárgljúfur
Langt og fjölbreytt gil. Mis djúpt en á nokkrum stöðum eru allt að 60m klettar. Mikilfenglegt og hrikalegt gjúlfur og mjög stutt frá bænum.

  1. Mellufær á Glerá – WI 5 

Smábátahöfnin
Lágir klettar við smábátahöfnina inni á Akureyri. Oft verða klettarnir að samfelldu ísþili og því verður erfiðara að greina á milli leiða. Þetta svæði hentar einstaklega vel til ísklifuræfinga og kennslu auk þess að vera mjög aðgengilegt fyrir skottúr eftir vinnu.

  1. Bryggjuball – WI 2/3
  2. Duggi dugg – WI 2/3
  3. Hálfaaldan – WI 2/3
  4. Rúmsjór – WI 2/3
  5. Trausti – WI 2/3
  6. Bryggjupollinn – WI 2

Munkaþverá
Innst í Munkaþverárgilinu, ofan við brúna myndast einhver ís á veggjunum yfir áni. Hér hefur lítillega verið mixklifrað í toprope.

Vaðlaheiði
Ein leið skráð eins og er, Tönnin. Líklega leynast fleiri leiðir á Vaðlaheiðinni

  1. Tönnin – WI 3+