Line nr 3, right side of #44

The approach to this route goes in the same canyon as the route Hrynjandi(in grindagil) but turns left up a steep hill with some small sections of ice. Crampons and ice axes recommended for the approach as it is quite steep(40° – 50°). Takes around 30 minutes to get to the routes from the car. You can park by the side of the road or follow a 4wd track down to the river. Crossing the river on foot should be possible if the river is well frozen and there are some ice bridges.

The route starts up a steep, near vertical ice slab leading into the crux move which is getting up through a small chimney-like feature. Some fun stemming moves there and after that there is a short rest under some massive icicles. Use extreme caution if breaking any of those. The next part is completely vertical until easing off a little at the top. We didn’t top out, instead we made a v-thread and went back down the same way.

The name of the route comes from the fact that the line a little to the right of the route is VERY wet and was attempted first but after getting drenched after placing 2 screws in it we traversed over to this one.

22m WI4+

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Route number B13.

“Þór er bakkelsi” er ný mixleið á horninu vinstra megin við leiðina “Fimm í fötu M5+”.

Leiðin er 40m og það er hægt að klifra hana í einni spönn en mælt er gegn því sökum núnings sem myndast á stórri syllu fyrir miðri leið. Því hefur verið komið fyrir tveggja bolta milli stans á þeirri syllu. Annars eru 13 boltar í leiðinni. Til að minnka run outið er hæglega hægt að koma fyrir Camalot 1/2 efst í fyrstu spönninni og svo .75 á bröltinu upp að millistansinum. Einnig er hentugt að hafa .5 Camalot fyrir cruxið í efri spönninni.

Fyrsta spönnin er sirka M5 og fylgir augljósri sprungu upp á stallinn. Nóg er af góðum húkkum og spennutökum fyrir axir. Aðal fjörið leynist í efri spönninni þar sem hliðrað er út til vinstri og önnur sprunga leiðir upp í gegnum brattasta kafla klettsins. Aftur er nóg um góð spennutök í sprungunni en eitthvað minna fyrir fætur. Þegar lykilkaflinn hefur verið leystur er eftir skemmtilega krefjandi mantle á toppinn.

Gengið er beint upp að leiðinni frá bílastæðinu og fínt er að síga niður úr boltuðu akkeri á toppnum. Athugið að ef klifrað er á einni 60m línu þá þarf að síga niður í tveimur köflum. 70m lína og tvöfaldar línur ná auðveldlega niður.

Leiðin var fyrst farin af Matteo Meucci í Nóvember 2015.

Route number  F1 in photo

Short waterfall that sometimes get very thick. Great warmup, short distance from the carpark and divides the hike up to the main cliffs

FA: Unknown

Route number F2 in the photo.

Short warm up route just by the carpark. Easier than Hávamál (F1)

FA: Unknown

Route number F3 in the photo

Short but interesting route.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Marco Porta, May 2017. M 4, 20m

Route number F4 in the photo.

Water leaks down the main cliff and forms a short but steep ice fall.

FA: Unkonwn

Route number F5 in the photo.

Half bolted drytooling route, bolts are only in the first half and then the rest is on traditional protection. Interesting character in this route, axe holds are usually quite good but foot holds are bad. The route is in a kind of a corner between collumns so stemming is in some parts an option.

FA: Unknown

Route number F6 in the photo.

Halfbolted drytooling route like Þorskur á þurru landi (F5). Opposite of F5, this route has quite bad axe placements but good foot holds to compensate. The difficulty is roughly the same.

FA: Unknown

Route number F7 in the photo.

Bolted top anchor above a tight crack in a small corner that has at least been climbed on top rope. The route starts in an overhanging wedge. This route can be bolted and redpointed if some one is interested. Difficulty around M6-7.

There is a slight chance this is a route by Jón Heiðar Andrésson that is called Skitið í buxurnar. Jón Heiðar on the other hand doesn’t remember this accent

FA: Unknown

Route number D10.

Easy corner with a ledge mid way. Protected with trad gear.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson May 2017, M 4, 30m

Route number D9

Nice arette in the beginning with keymoves mid way up. Final part is on a vertical wall and a thin crack. Traditional protection. This route was the 90th in Matteos 100 route mission (2017).

The route has been bolted in 2018 and added a bolt on the top anchor in 2024 (now 2 bolts but no rings for top rope).

FA: Matteo Meucci & Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, May 2017, M6, 30m

Route number D7b.

Drytooling route explored on top rope about 10 years ago (2013ish) from Ivar Finnbogason, Björgvinn Hilmarsson and Viðar Helgason.

Start with some moss hooks and then after a good rest follows a crack with marginal foot holds to get to a delicate traverse and finish on final cracks.

One bolt at the bottom for the belayer. Top anchor with 2 bolts with a big Mallon for the top rope or abseiling down. Easy accessible from Testofan.

FF Matteo Meucci 13/12/2024 on pink-point (pre placed gear)

Route number C12.

Starts in a crack and leads up to a tricky slab. Easy finnish.

FA: Matteo Meucci & Halldór Fannar, April 2017, M 4+ 20m

Route number C4.

Mixed (clean) variant of Íste. GHC led the route onsight and world famous Jeff Lowe followed. The route was at the time, the hardest mixed route in Iceland.

FA: Guðmundur Helgi Christiansen & Jeff Lowe, 11. February 1998

Route number C2.

The route is on the left side of the ridge by Íste. Starts in a corner (rock) rigth side and under an icicle, traverses up and to the left on an obvious bump on rock, there you can reach the icicle. Vertical ice from there and to the top.

FA: Guðmundur Tómasson & Páll Sveinsson, February 1997

Route number B2.

Left route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B4.

Right route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B6.

Bolted overhanging mix climbing route. Traverses left under a big roof – real piece for hard heads!. First bolted route in Múlafjall. The route was named after the drinks that were drunk during the climb. Upper part it hard to climb if there is no ice and you might have to use traditional protection above the bolts.

FA: Styrmir Steingríms, Jökull B & Guðmundur T, 1998-1999, M7 (4 bolts), 30-40m

Rebolted in 2020

Route number B8.

Icicle up from Drjúpandi. Climbed by Palli Sveins and one of the most famous ice climber of that time, Guy Lacalle.

FF: Guy Lacalle og Páll Sveinsso, 1996, WI 5