Fun route at the end of the gully of Stóragil next to Erpstadir guest house Road582

we parked before entering a property with abandoned shelter and trucks and walked the left part of the gully (looking uphill) until was easy to go down to the river (after the narrow part and a evident icicle on the other side).

If the river is fully frozen is possible to go through since the beginning but half way there is a step in a narrow part.

The route is about 120m long with a first steep part

We walked the right side of the river on the way back (looking uphill)

FA Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 19/01/2024 120m WI3

Location:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VaBcPk54Bow2z8tAA, 64.726862, -14.428976. The route can be found just left of “Gengið í svefni”.

Approach:

The approach takes about 40 minutes, the line can be seen from the road. There is several small openings by the road where is possible to park

The route:

The route was climbed in 4 pitches, but it’s possible to climb it in 2 very long pitches with a single comfortable belay after pitch 2. The first few short ice bumps can be walked around

Pitch 1: WI3+, 20m

Pitch 2: WI4, 25m

Pitch 3: WI4, 30m

Pitch 4: WI3+, 20m

Descend on rappel

FA on January 8th 2024 by Camille Verot and Uri Castells

Camille on the 3rd pitch

Route next of Bags and Thoughts (red line)

Yellow line in the topos

start with some mix moves (2 cams green and purple BD, possible to use the yellow higher up) then a series of icicle with a little roof to cross. All the way to the top of the ice blob. V-thread to rappel

FF Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024 20m WI5 M6

First route on the new sector EAST Hlaðhamrar, first gully coming from the gully to access to it.

The 100th Route of Mulafjall

After a steep part follow a ledge and the we took the right branch that led us to steep part that we mixed; it’s possible that with more ice get fully close and cover

FF Matteo Meucci and Julian O’Neil 24/01/2024

Easy gully on the extreme left (East) part of Hlaðhamrar

Going up the main gully to access to A1 the route is the gully and little higher then the ledge to access the other routes

FF Julian O’Neil and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2024

Bolted route that can be climbed full dry or with some ice on the lower part and the top but with dry moves in the middle.

Follows and open corner to get to a little roof part then a crack on the upper part , finishing with a tricky slab. Anchor on the edge of the wall (20m)

Possible to keep going all the way up the cliff on ice. Bolted anchor on the top 40m from ground

between Falki A8 and Lundi A9. Red line in the topos

bolted by Matteo Meucci 2019

FF Matteo Meucci 03/12/2023

First gully right of Testofan or first left of Risandi,  marked as N0 in the topos

Easy snow climb until the last two pitches where you get some WI2 ice

Belay on top with sling around rocks

FF Óþekktur

(climbed by Elisabet, Halli and Matteo 21/01/2020)

Leið beint ofan við skógræktina í Hamrahlíð og liggur samsíða hluta af bröttu gönguleiðinni upp á Úlfarsfell.

Stuttir stallar, getur mögulega náð WI 3 ef hún er þunn og enginn snjór til staðar, oftast WI 2 en getur líka horfið á snjóþungum vetri.

FF: Óþekkt einhverntíman í fyrndinni.

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Leið númer 3. á mynd.

Fyrsta augljósa leiðin á vinstri hönd ofan við leiðirnar “Aðrein” og “Hraðbraut til heljar”.

Byrjar á bröttum pillar sem er um 20-25 metrar upp á sillu. Við tekur svo 10-15 metra haft sem er örlítið til hægri, seinna haftið er auðveldara en tortryggt, hægt er að fara lengra til hægri fyrir meiri ís og betri tryggingar.

Í frumferðinni var leiðin klifruð í einni spönn og er þá um 50 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Sorry, this entry is only available in Icelandic. For the sake of viewer convenience, the content is shown below in the alternative language. You may click the link to switch the active language.

Leið númer 2 á mynd.

Nokkuð vatnsmikill foss neðst í Stekkjagili. Fossinn er eflaust oft opin og því ekki í klifranlegum aðstæðum.

Í leiðarvísu um Haukadal í ársriti Ísalp frá 1998 stendur eftirfarandi um leiðina “Ef gengið er inn eftir botni gilsins kemur maður að opnum fossi sem kemur i veg fyrir frekari uppgöngu. Hægt er að fara fram hjá fossinum með þvi að klifra upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins i einni til tveimur spönnum.” Leiðin upp vinstri vegg gljúfursins er leiðin Aðrein.

Leiðin er eflaust 30 – 40 metrar.

FF. Ottó Ingi Þórisson og Sigurður Tómas Þórisson – 4. febrúar 2024

Einföld leið upp lækinn í Fúsagili. Aðkoma eftir hefðbundnu gönguleiðinni inn í Bæjarstaðarskóg, þaðan inn með Vestragili og brölt upp úr að Fúsagili. Nokkur höft upp að þriðju gráðu og slatti af léttara brölti. Lítið mál er svo að klára upp á topp Jökulfells með því að klífa skriðuna og nokkur stutt kletta/íshöft ofan Fúsadals. Nafn leiðarinnar kemur ekki til vegna formfagrar fótafærni frumfaranda,  heldur sökum tíðra óvæntra fótabaða sem tekin voru á leiðinni.

FF: Tryggvi Unnsteinsson – 10. mars 2023.

A big, beautiful and hard route with wild ice formations on the south facing cliffs which overlook Huldujökull.

The two crux pitches climb detached pillars and curtains, and were climbed on the right side during the first ascent.

Approach via Kötlujökull. The base of the route is approximately 5km from the glacier terminus, though navigating the terminal moraine of Kötlujökull and the lateral moraine which guards entry to Huldujökull can be time consuming.

P1: WI4 50m
P2: WI6 40m
P3: WI6 30m
P4: WI4 30m

FA: Rory Harrison and Jay Philip Borchard 09/02/24

This route is west of Svellgjá in the gully on the most western part of this cliff. Climb the chimney and then make some delicate moves to gain the easy ice. There are a handful of gear places available. Continue up the short gully. Climbed on the ísalp ice climbing festival 2024.

~40 meters in length

F.A Jay Borchard and Kjartan Tindur Gunnarsson 21.01.24

Leið nr. 1 á yfirlitsmynd.

85m WI4

Fyrri spönn hefst á 10-15 metrum af WI4, en verður svo WI3. Það er nóg um góða stansa eftir að fyrsta haftinu sleppir.  Það má því skipta leiðinni upp eins og klifrurum sýnist en við tókum hana í 50m og svo 35m spönn af WI3. Leiðin er sérstaklega heppileg þegar klifrarar eru á sitthvoru getustiginu, þannig getur annað fengið góða skemmtun af því að leiða upphafið, síðan getur hin(n) reynsluminni tekið restina.

Síga þarf niður úr leiðinni á V-þræðingum.

Þessi leið hefur ekki verið skráð áður þannig að við gefum henni nafn og gráðu. Nafnið er talið lýsa leiðinni vel þar sem hún hefst á mjög spennandi hreyfingum en svo gerist ekkert frásagnarvert eftir það. Farin af Ágústi Kristjáni Steinarrssyni og Halldóri Fannari 21. janúar 2024.

No 7 on the picture

65Meters

FA:Selina Hube and Ignacio Livianos

Route B10c

This route is left of Gjörgæsla. It started with a short step leading to a corner with very little ice in it. From there the crux of the route was to step out of the corner and onto a free hanging curtain. Few tricky moves take you to a little rest before you finish to the top.

The route gets logged here with the disclaimer that someone might have climbed it back in the day. There can’t be that many unclimbed routes in Múlafjall anymore.

F.A. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson and Bergur Sigurðarson 10. December 2023

Sector B on the map. This is a continous 100m wide wall of ice that was therefore named “Digri” (Husky). You can read about the approach on the overview page for Hvalfjörður.

“Digri” is below a number of ponds and should therefore provide early season fun and stay that way for most of winter. Due to the proximity to the ocean it should rarely be too cold and the surf creates a cozy ambiance.

Routes are about 20 meters high and range from 3 to 4 depending on line chosen. A great place to practice and have fun.

FF. Ágúst Kristján Steinarrsson og Halldór Fannar  10th of December, 2023