Route 2

Easy beginning leads to a steep finish. WI3+

FA. Lýðskólinn á Flateyri

Route C3 in the topos

The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.

5 pitches 240m WI4

FF: Óþekkt

Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).

Leið í gilinu sem er á milli Búahamra og Vesturbrúna, er í Búahamra hliðinni.

Hægri leiðin á myndinni. Í frumferð var svo farið til hægri í toppinn.

Gilið er oft fullt af snjó og er þekkt skíðaleið þar niður.

WI 3, 60m, best að síga niður

FF: Rory Harrison og Rögnvaldur Finnbogason, 5. febrúar 2021

Located a short way up Krossárgljúfur where a small side creek drops down the True Right wall. The top third of the route can be seen from the highway. The first section is of high quality and very sustained until a good rest is reached on the large obvious ledge before the final steps.  One pitch, WI4+, 45m+.

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 31/01/2021.

Route 6

Sustained climb with an overhanging section then only in the last meters become easy.

Rappel on V-thread

Access:

N1-very suggested to warm up on the route 7 and then if the river is frozen there is a 10m pillar to climb that lead to this route.

N2 -is to walk up the slope on the left (going upstream) of the gully until facing the route and then descend the easy slope to get to the route

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 WI6 50m

Route N7

First route that appear walking towards the gully of Hestagil, it is on the left side going upstream.

Approach about 40′ from Forest Office Hut.

Main obstacle can be to cross the river; we manage quite well by going upstream of the intersection coming from Hestagill.

Possible to rappel down or walk down a slope and then back at the base in the canyon.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca  27/01/2021 45m WI4

Route C0B5

Gully right of C0B4

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m

Route C0B4

Easy line

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m

Route C0B3

Line in the ice dihedral. Can be done in 3 pitches or skipping the first 2 by scrambling.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021  WI3 40m

Route C0B2

Line on the right with a steep central part.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021 WI4 40m

Central line of the ice on the left of the rock outcrop. Route C0B1

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021 WI3 40m

Route G5 in the topos.

Evident waterfall at the end of the valley. 1h Approach

stay on the left of the valley going upstream and then close to the waterfall follow the river if frozen. Possible to follow the slopes on the left if no ice on the river.

We climbed on the right because was dry. Amazing environment.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021  40m WI3

Route G3 in the picture.

Evident pillar by the end of the valley.

The route continue all the way up with several steps with snow slopes in between. At the second pitch we went right but it is possible to go left on a similar gully.

Approach about 50min, we stood on the left of the valley (going upstream ) after parking at Forest Service Hut.

FF: Bergur Sigurðarson and friend climbed the first pitch in Nov 2020

Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 4 pitches

Line C0A4 in the topos

40m line with a ledge after 10m. possible to descent from the gully on the right.

Sector above the farm of Ingunnarstaðir, 20min approach

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 24/01/2021 WI4 40m

C0A2 in the picture

Short icicle then slab.

Sector above the farm of Ingunnarstaðir. 20min approach

FF: Andrea Fiocca and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2021 WI3 30m

Leið C7

Leið í sömu hvelfingu og C6 – Kvistlingur. Leiðin liggur upp miðjan vegginn.

Í byrjun er lítill stallur sem þarf að taka 2-3 hreyfingar upp á. Frá stallinum er smá bratt í byrjun en fljótlega slaknar á brattanum.

FF: Óþekkt

This route is located in the next side ravine beyond the ‘Dominos’ gully on the true right of the Merkurá valley.

Climbed in one long pitch. The route begins up WI3 steps, with straight forward footwork on fat ice even when other routes in the area are on the lean side. From the obvious constriction the route lays back to WI2 for approximately 30m for a total length of around 55m. (Note the first “step” is hidden in the photo)

Rich Bell & Mery González Tejada, 01/01/2021.

Mynd óskast.

Hægra megin við Mary Poppins

WI4+

FF: Freyr Ingi Björnsson, Sveinn Friðrik Sveinsson og Styrmir Steingrímsson, 2006

Tæknileg, vinstra megin við Brennivídd. Leiðin fylgir hægri kverkinni á mynd.

Leiðin er inni í gilinu, sést varla frá bænum

FF: Freyr Ingi Björnsson, Sveinn Friðrik Sveinsson og Styrmir Steingrímsson, 2006

Leiðin byrjar í aflíðandi ís/snjóbrekku vinstra megin við hvelfinguna.  Gott er fyrir þann sem tryggir að halda sig sem lengst til vinstri þar sem mikill ís getur losnað úr leiðinni því í henni myndast mikið af kertum. Annar möguleiki væri að halda sig inni í hvelfingunni ef fossinn er alveg frosinn – annars er þar samfelldur úði af ísköldu vatni.

Fyrsta spönn er um 50 m og í seinni hluta hennar er ísinn orðinn nálægt lóðréttu og lítið um hvíldarstöður. Seinni spönn er um 40 m og getur verið yfirhangandi á köflum. Í frumferð þurfti að klifra yfir og framhjá mögnuðum grýlukertamyndunum – eins og regnhlífar með göddum á. Það voru mörg lög af þessum regnhlífum og þess vegna sást ekki í efri brún leiðarinnar fyrr en komið var langleiðina þangað.

Sígið niður úr v-þræðingu frá toppi á tveimur 60 m línum. Í frumferð reyndust grýlukertin undarleg sterk og fá þeirra brotnuðu – vonandi gildir það áfram.

Tvær spannir, 50m + 40m.

FF: Ágúst Kristján og Halldór Fannar, 29. des 2020