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Went
-on Monday to Bolaklettur to climb “Bara ef mamma Vissi” that is in exceptional conditions WI5 with Andrea (1pitch 50m, rappel down on Vthread).
-on Tuesday to Áslaukur in Kjös with Bjartur in great conditions (1pitch 50m, rappel down on Vthread).
-on Wednesday to Þráin in Háifoss with Bjartur WI6 in good conditions (2 pitches of 50-55m).Went to Bolakletur with Andrea yesterday and climbed the river Árdalsá with 2 pitches and then 2 more little steps in solo WI3.
Today with Andrea and Brook went to Brattabrekka and climbed Single malt on the rocks. The entire river is frozen and the line is nice. Some petals on the crux pitch make this a bit more challenging. Last pitches on ice.
Went to Glymur yesterday and climbed Hvalur 2. The canyon was flooded and wasn’t possible to go any further. brittle ice. We probably did a variation from the 3pitch going on the left. The upper pillar wasn’t looking connected.
Today we went to Kjos in the canyon north of Aslakur. 2 possible new lines.Went to Gullfoss yesterday with Andrea and Brook.
Climbed Hvitagull and Svingersklobb.
Hvitagull in good condition 20min approach from the parking lot; we did follow the road after crossing the gate but is also possible to follow the path to Gullfoss and then turn left and reach the line. we used a fixed rope to abseil, anchor on the ground (frozen stream).
I really suggest Svingersklobb as well, is it on the way few minutes driving back after lower some turns. follow the road to the summer house and then turn to the field before crossing the river.Went to Brynkudalur today in Hestagill.
Climb a WI4 ate the beginning of the canyon and then after climbing a 10m step along the river we arrived at another line that is about half way of the canyon. Is possible to get to this route by a slope on the other side of the stream (left going upstream).
The pitch is 50m and WI6, belay on top on ice, V-thread for abseiling.
Think both are first ascent.Went in Brynkudalur Sunday and Monday.
Climbed 2 lines on the far left of sector C Ingunnarstadir, just above the farm; a really wide route about WI4 and a skinny one on the gully on the left WI3.
second time we went at the end of the valley with about 1h approach; climbed a pillar on the left and then kept going with easier steps for 4 pitches in total WI4. Then we went by the waterfall of the main stream and we climbed on the right. We choose the dry line WI3.Went to Brynjudalur yesterday and climbed a few line on the C sector, far left.
Condition are good in the valley but the B sector is still in poor conditions.Attachments:
Went to Mulafjall on the 23rd. Couple of routes in Testofan and others on Kotlugrof. Not many lines in conditions and those with ice have a lot and big umbrellas.
Another party went far left (Hollow wall about)Went to Bolaklettur today and climbed route C3. 5 pitches still skinny in the lower part but easy climbable. Descent from the gully on the right from the top.
We also took a drive through Hvalfjordur on the way back : Villingadalur looks good, Mulafjall still good as in the WE, First part of Brynjudalur is good as well ( Orion was looking done, but was a bit dark so might be wrong)Went to Brynjudalur yesterday with Marco and Jose. We climbed C8 Med fjora tigu nauta, then a line in a gully on the left C7a, then we started the line C7.
Conditions start to be in, most of the line easier then WI4 are formed. Harder line need more time.Went to Kjös yesterday with Andrea and Marco.
We climbed Icesave with snow conditions, no ice and then 2 possible new line in the canyon of Þverá next to the farm of Hækingsdalur.
We walked pass by Áslakur but it is open on the top with running water.
Conditions in the first part of Kjös looks still early season for harder then 4 and a bit snowy for easier.Went to Tviburagill Monday and Wednesday, some routes are in good conditions (Olympiska, Verkalysfelagid) but the waterfall are not ready yet (also HFF and the other are missing ice to get out, non bolts).
I sent a project (N14 in the topos) “Sturm und drang” M7+/M8.On Tuesday I went in Kjos for áslákur but looks still thin. we moved to Drauðsmannfoss that is climbable but still wet. we also climbed Dingulberi.
Hi,
went to Mulafjall yesterday and we did a couple of route in Testofan that we consider safe for the conditions.Överpið has the first bolt on a loose rock, I’m going to replace soon.
Mulakaffi, I left a maillot years ago on the belay, rusted in the time, maybe I’ll put a ring and we can more easily top rope.
Matteo
Hi,
on March 4th with Bjartur and Pete went to Mulafjall, climbed Risandi right branch and then Fjukandi. Conditions are top in Mulafjall.Hi,
on the 25th feb me and Maurizio Tasca climbed a line in Stigardalur (Oraefi) without topping out. We are not going to give a name because is not completed lacking ice but to the point we reached was a WI6 for us.
We know the line has been attempted from Palli before.
In the topos is the line marked “Unclimbed”Attachments:
Hi all,
on last Tuesday Me and Franco went in Mulafjall in the new “kaffistofan” sector and added 3 easy lines.
From the extreme right, the first 3 obvious lines:-Latte macchiato WI2+ 40m
-Americano WI3 40m
-Corretto WI3+/M4 40mThe top belay is in the same spot with a providential rock (I’m mark it next time I go), nothing left.
Me and Bergur went in Flugugill today and did a couple of routes. Conditions are good, a bit of cross to clean on easier parts but the rest ok. Bit of snow in gullies.
The lines are in green in the topos pics, and I would say WI3+/4 55m the left one and WI4+/5 40m the right.
Brynjudalur looks good, Esja as well. Snow on approaches to be evaluated (avalanches?) in Eilifsdalur and Hrutadalur.Attachments:
Hi, yesterday with Asgeir Mar went to Mulafjall in a possibly new sector (not reported in the recent topos) west of Leikfangland. There is a parking spot just straight below.
We named it “Kaffistofan”. Approach is slightly shorter then Testofan, 30′.
On the left we climbed after a common pitch of 45m WI2:
– the obvious gully “Ekkert Te” WI3 40m
– The main line “Afmaelid kaka” WI4 30mon the right:
– “Bara kaffi” WI4 30m
– “Ristretto” WI4/M5 45mPotential for more lines.
Attachments:
Hi all,
Me Halli and Elizabet went to Mulafjall today. Conditions are good, quite a lot of ice (pabbaleid is a big icicle touching the ground). We climbed the gully WI2 left of Risandi (we saw a team climbing Risandi) and then to Testofan Overpid and Frumburdurinn.
Orion looks good, Buahamrar looks good as well.Hi,
I’m not experienced in crossing but here are my tips:
– i would rather have skis (slightly wider than cross-country one) more than walking just to make easier.
– Track is kind of ok, but of course depend how much you can do every day.I think in average you can do 25km, usually you need to sleep in the tent half way to huts.I know people take 9 days to get to Hella, maybe only 4 is a bit optimistic.
– I think after Hrauneyiar can be that the snow pack is little or not present, so carry sledge on half of the south coast can be really painful (i don’t know if that is in the project, or you drop them in Hella) unless you have wheels to put underneath.
Cheers,
MatteoI went to the west face of Kristinartindar today and climbed a new route on the right of Endurfundir, WI4 200m “Blunt spikes”. conditions are good in this place, hard snow on the approach in early morning.
Hi,
with Agust went to Mulafjall. Good conditions all the lines are pretty much in, quite a bit of ice. We did 4 lines on the right of B1 Duma Amma, all about WI3.
Few days ago i did a drive in Hvalfjordur and Borgarnes, here is a quick report:Brynjudalur: looks good, even Yringur is in but the first part, Orion was looking ok from far.
Eilifsdalur: all lines in conditions, maybe a bit of snow on the approach and on the easy one.
Hrutadalur: looks good, snow on the approach
Villingadalur: I saw picture from a week ago, lines in but maybe deep snow on approach
Bolakettur: something doable but dry conditions
Skardsheidi: in general looks ok but some lines are dry, may a bit of snow on approach
Grafarfoss: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running
Tviburagill: from far looks in conditions, maybe a bit thin and some water running but both waterfalls are formed
Vesturbrunir: looks there is some ice, at least Vopnid kvold and welcome to iceland have some ice, easy lines should be doable.
Most of the north facing crags are good, south facing are dry and thin ice. Ground is not frozen that much.
Hi,
last week i’ve been climbing with Franco the following routes.
-Glymur allur in Glymur, good conditions with first 2 pitches a bit wet
-Orion in Flugugill, good conditions, a lot of snow on the approach, cauliflower ice on the first pitch and good ice on second. V-thread at the end of ice without topping out because of inconsistent snow on the last slope.
-Lost and found in Grundarfjordur (next to Grundarfoss) more info soon (WI5-6ish)
-Þvergill in Myrarhyrna quite a bit of snow and crost on easy pitches. WI3 refer only to the technical grade, but a general grade would be harder because of the length and complexity of rappelling down. Don’t take it easy!
General conditions around RVK were pretty good as on the way north and in GRundarfjordur.
Conditions in the south are poor on low elevation.
