Drytooling Búahellir

[Matteo]

Topic for those want to go and practicing DT at the cave. We will try to keep updated and we will post suggested grades as soon as we manage to free the lines.

The rock is solid and most of the hooks are drilled. The red marks are below the holes with the exception of under clinch then they are above. There are red dots for suggested natural holds (crack…..); if it is very obvious or much easier then the hard part of the route is it possible that there are no marks.

60m rope is needed along with 12-14 quickdraws.

There are btw 8 to 12 bolts on the routes, then all the anchors are with rings, so you have to thread the rope through: HAVE SOME GEAR TO DO IT! (a longe or 2 quickdraw and a locking carabiner are enough).

Is it possible that small rocks are falling during climbing, watch out and wear the helmet.

There are some fixed quickdraws but you always need some to climb the routes, they are only on the harder and most overhanging part.

Routes 1-5 have a small platform at the base, please do not destroy them but please make them nicer.

Routes 6-7 is better if are belayed from the lower big terrace but be careful on the first 2-3 bolts because the climber can ground if too much slack is given.

Routes 8-12  there is another little terrace at the bottom but the climber is going to lower on the main terrace 10m below.

Routes are numbered from left to right:

N1  D6+       FA Matteo (need to be fully confirmed)  2 steep part with a good rest halfway

N2  D7/7+    FA Matteo (need to be fully confirmed) overhanging shield, tricky natural hold on the last bolt

N3  D8+?     really hard under clinch just below the little roof with bad feet

N4  D8?       Long hard sequence with a tricky crack to get out of the steep part. Do not underestimate the exit, on natural holds.

N5  D9+/D10?  Roof with poor feet, hard move to go over the edge

N6

N7

N8

N9

N10

N11

N12

[Siggi Richter]

Virkilega vel gert Matteo! Get ekki beðið eftir að prófa þetta fljótlega!
Any idea of the length of the routes?

[Matteo]

Routes length:
1-5 is about 20m
6-7-8-9 are the same but the wall is so overhanging that when you lower you end 10m below the start, so would say 30m
10-12 are short, maybe 15m

[Matteo]

Manage to send N12 yesterday, I think it is D8, very tricky. Long reaches and poor feet at the last bolt to cross the roof. 8 quickdraw needed

[Matteo]

Hi,
all the routes have been climbed and grades are (from the right):

A D4, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 12 quickdraw needed)
B D5, FA Matteo Meucci (up in the gully, 3rd bolt has fixed quickdraw, 12 are needed)
N1 D5+, FA Matteo Meucci (dihedral, 12 quickdraw)
N2 D6+, FA Matteo Meucci (12 quickdraw)
N3 D8/8+, FA Matteo Meucci (first with fixed quickdraw, 8 quickdraw are needed)
N4 D7+/8, FA Matteo Meucci (8 quickdraw needed)
N5 D9/9+, FA Matteo Meucci (line in the full roof, 8 quickdraw needed)
N6 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, long green sling as fixed quickdraw, 6 needed)
N7 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed)
N8 D9/9+, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (Boulder problem after the ledge, 6 quickdraw needed, start from the left of the crag)
N9 D8, FA Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed, Blue sling and black carabiners)
N10 D6+/7, FA Jeff Mercier & Angelika Rainer (4 quickdraw needed)
N11 D8+, FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed, Black sling and yellow carabiners)
N12 D8 FA Matteo Meucci (4 quickdraw needed)

[Sissi]

Rosalegur Matteo, vel gert!

[Jonni]

Whoop whopp, vel gert!
Now we only need the names 😉

[Gunnar Már]

Vel gert Matteo! Ég vil líkja hvetja fólk til að kíkja þetta svæði. Algjört þrekvirki að búa þetta til.

[Matteo]

Hi, looks some holds broke down in the first 2 routes (dihedral and left ).
the routes are still possible but bit more insecure then before, in particular the dihedral.
I’ll try to fix them the sooner

If you brake something please let me know that I’ll try to fix ASAP.

[Author]

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