The route: 

Route number 4. 60 meters

Pitch 1: 30m WI3+. Very thin ice. Technical climb

Pitch 2: 30m WI4. Vertical sections, more physical than the first pitch. Nice comfortable belay

Descent in one long rappel

Location:

63.976024, -17.537842 https://maps.app.goo.gl/YTkGf2vdsGtFJ2JeA 

Approach: 

It’s possible to drive all the way in to the base of the wall. Then 30 minute scramble up the loose rocks.

FA: Uri Castells, Camille Verot and Florent Irion, December 20th 2023

Location:

63.818812, -18.068913, https://maps.app.goo.gl/khmKKwvZDtcwg2re8

Approach:

Park at Geirland and walk upstream towards the old power plant in Mörk. The line is found on the right side walls ( west face) among other climbable lines

The route:

The route is about 60m long. Starts with a 10m vertical section (WI3+) followed by a walking section. Then the route follows up on 30m of WI3 to the base of the last pillar. The final pillar is short but intense, 10m or less of vertical smooth ice, WI3++. On the first ascent we topped out above the pillar which was an issue to find a proper anchor, since the pillar is born on the wall itself and there was no ice on the top. The route was originally climbed in 3 pitches but it’s probably better climbed in just 2.

Location:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VaBcPk54Bow2z8tAA, 64.726862, -14.428976. The route can be found just left of “Gengið í svefni”.

Approach:

The approach takes about 40 minutes, the line can be seen from the road. There is several small openings by the road where is possible to park

The route:

The route was climbed in 4 pitches, but it’s possible to climb it in 2 very long pitches with a single comfortable belay after pitch 2. The first few short ice bumps can be walked around

Pitch 1: WI3+, 20m

Pitch 2: WI4, 25m

Pitch 3: WI4, 30m

Pitch 4: WI3+, 20m

Descend on rappel

FA on January 8th 2024 by Camille Verot and Uri Castells

Camille on the 3rd pitch