#2.

Pleasant climbing just right of Dauðsmannsfoss.

A short steep section followed by easy ice to the top.  Climb the long snow slope above or abseil off (~50m).

Route number 4

The route climbs the obvious Z or lightning bolt cracks to the right of ‘Originalin’ (3), well-protected.

Begin tentatively up the wall to the base of the crack (multiple starts possible). Good hand jamming moves (protected with gold #3 cams) leads to a short, thin diagonal crack. Move slightly left to the wide fist/off-fist crack (#3, blue cam), here use good side-pulls to the right leading to a good rest at the big flake. Take a deep breath and fire leftwards along the jug rail using pure brute strength or heel-hooks to climb onto the small ledge above. Alternatively, go straight up the off-width crack (4b, protected by #4 (DMM #5), grey cam or larger – not yet climbed). Possible to belay at this ledge or finish up the corner above to belay as for ‘Originalin’ and ‘Mundi’.

Grade: 5.10a (?)

FF: 5/Sept/2020, Robert Askew and Brook Woodman