Route C0B4

Easy line

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m

Route C0B3

Line in the ice dihedral. Can be done in 3 pitches or skipping the first 2 by scrambling.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021  WI3 40m

Route C0B2

Line on the right with a steep central part.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021 WI4 40m

Central line of the ice on the left of the rock outcrop. Route C0B1

FF: Matteo Meucci and Michele Gaeta 22/01/2021 WI3 40m

Route G5 in the topos.

Evident waterfall at the end of the valley. 1h Approach

stay on the left of the valley going upstream and then close to the waterfall follow the river if frozen. Possible to follow the slopes on the left if no ice on the river.

We climbed on the right because was dry. Amazing environment.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021  40m WI3

Route G3 in the picture.

Evident pillar by the end of the valley.

The route continue all the way up with several steps with snow slopes in between. At the second pitch we went right but it is possible to go left on a similar gully.

Approach about 50min, we stood on the left of the valley (going upstream ) after parking at Forest Service Hut.

FF: Bergur Sigurðarson and friend climbed the first pitch in Nov 2020

Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 25/01/2021 4 pitches

Line C0A4 in the topos

40m line with a ledge after 10m. possible to descent from the gully on the right.

Sector above the farm of Ingunnarstaðir, 20min approach

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 24/01/2021 WI4 40m

C0A2 in the picture

Short icicle then slab.

Sector above the farm of Ingunnarstaðir. 20min approach

FF: Andrea Fiocca and Matteo Meucci 24/01/2021 WI3 30m

One of the first line in the canyon. (Blue in photo)

Nothing for build an anchor on top, we wrapped cordelette around a clump of ground.

Suggested approach is following the river bed.

FF Andrea Fiocca, Marco Porta and Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  35m  WI2

Short but steep pillar in a bowl . (Red in the picture)

From the farm of Hækingsdalur keep the left (going up stream ) of the canyon and cross the 2 main river then lower to the main river and raise to the bowl.

Is it possible to walk along the main river but need to be frozen

FF Matteo Meucci 30/11/2020  WI4+ 30m

Route number 13

The route is exactly in the corner between the 2 sides of the crag. Goes through an overhanging section at the beginning and then a more technical one on the second part. Late in the season the second part can get easier if there is ice.

Fully bolted, has an independent anchor that can be reached with a short rappel from the main one on top of the crag. Better to extend the last 2 bolts with some long sling 90-120 to protect a boulder problem and a tricky slab.

FF: Matteo Meucci 25/11/2020

280m WI5+

FF: Matteo Meucci, Franco Del Guerra,  8. Feb 2020

Park the car at Kirkjubol on Gemlufallsheidi on the south side of Onundafjordur. Cross the river on Galtardalur following the fence on the south side, pointing the north face of Kaldbakur. About 1h approach.

The slope get steeper and we roped up about 120m before the ice line  at the bottom of a small cliff of rock.

P1-120m slope with some ice steps. Possible to split in 2 real pitches.

P2-40m WI5+ sustained wall of ice with a small ledge half way. Better to stop before the end of the ice because is followed by a long slope with snow.

P3-70m  WI4 Some step of ice with one steep.

P4- 70m WI3 Some step of ice but the gully become easier the higher. we took the left branch but there is a right one as well. We  stopped at this point because of timing

Possible to reach the summit, crossing the cornice, in about 150-200m. At that point better walk down by the valley of Galtadalur

40m long WI3

FA: Franco Del Guerra, Matteo Meucci 9 Feb 2020

Some easy steps and then a steeper wall at the end. Possible a similar line just few m to the right ending in the same place.

Approach: park a Seljaland and go back on the road, cross the bridge and along the field and then start to walk up valley. The regular approach from the Valagil path can lead to an unpassable river if not fully frozen.

Route B1c in topos

WI3 40m

Easy gully with a steep part at the end.

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route B1b in topos

WI3 40m

Easy gully with a steep part at the end

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route B1a on topos

WI3 40m

2 steps with easy part in the middle

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route n°3 in the pictures.

Approach is about 2-2,5 hours from Skaftafell by the path of Sjónarsker. Two pitches on ice (WI4 40m and WI3 40m) and two slopes (40-45° 100m+50m).

FA: 6/04/2019 Matteo Meucci

Route number 60a.

2 pitches 140m  WI3 snow, mixte

p1 climb the ice and then traverse to the next snow field on the right

p2 straight up on the snow field crossing a steep rock band and leading to the left to climb a dihedral with a bit of mixte then cross the cornice

FF Matteo Meucci and Marco Porta 22/04/2017