Single pitch route next to Skaftafellsjökull.

The route is the next of Shameless.

Approach: from the visitor center walk about 25′  towards Skaftafellsjökull. Reached the warning sign, turn left and rise up on the gully to reach the route.

Descent: rappel from trees . Might be that is possible to go up the slope and climb down the gully on the left.

FA: Bart Vaganee and Matteo Meucci 10/01/202360m slab WI2/+

Grænafjall lies between Falljökull and Grænafjallsgljúfur in Öræfi.

We climbed one of the most north line (left facing the mountain), more lines are available.

The route start with a little pillar then some transfer pitches and then a short wall. Follows other 2 transfer pitches . We did 6 pitches in total.

Approach: just before the bridge of Falljökullkvisl turn left and follow the pist. better to go right at the first intersection to avoid a very steep bump to cross the little stream if you keep the main pist (straight at first crossing). After parking the car at the end, lower to the river bed on the right and follow, at the beginning along a quarry road but then leave it to follow again the river. Instead of going in Grænafjallsgljufur, go left and then take the gully of the route half way up on the valley. We actually reached the route by going slightly further and going up the ridge on the left of the gully and then traversing right to the route.

Descent: go left towards Falljöll crossing 2-3 streams and then lowering on the slopes

FA: Matteo Meucci, Brook Woodman, Bart Vaganee  8/01/2023 WI3/+

Famous waterfall in the town of Kirkjubærklaustur.

Rarely form due to the high water discharge, can be climbed in 2-3 pitches depend on the conditions.

Descent by the regular path to Sönghellir through the wood.

FA: Emily Rose Óla Bridger and Sámuel  2017

2 spannir, WI4

FF: Dani Arnold & Martin Echser, 3/2/22

WI 4+

2 pitches

FA: Dani Arnold and Davide Guzzardi 3/2/22

Route on the right of Mind Power (D7), that follow an evident crack and then a shield on the top part.

Climbed with pre-placed gear (pinkpoint). There is a bolt at first  that can be use to belay Mind Power and then 2 bolts on the top as anchor.

FA Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 23/04/2021

First and main gully on the left of Brynjudalur after the forest.

Approach about 50min.

Possibilities of short line in the gully. To get to the route you need to cross a big block, we did on the right on the rocks but if enough ice is better on the left.

3 pitches

Descent by the slope on the left or the right.

FF: Bergur Sigurdarson and Matteo Meucci 12/02/2021

Evident and difficult line.

We climbed only 3 pitches then we thought was impossible to continue because of lack of ice. So we consider an attempt.

We know that the route was already tried back in the days from Palli Sveinsson and Co.

We will update if will be completed

FF: Ópekkt

1st attempt : Palli Sveinsson 2 pitches

2nd attempt : Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 25/02/2020 3pitches

Where the river from Hvannadalur meet Virkisjokull.

Start on the top of the little moraine next to the river. Thin ice on the first pitch.

2 pitches

to descend is better to make a rappel to the right (uppvalley) and then traverse to reach the river.

FF: Maurizio Tasca and Matteo Meucci 27/02/2020

approach 1,45-2h from Falljokull regular parking lot

After the second pitch of the route we went left because the pillar wasn’t connected.

First 20m on mix terrain with poor protection then a dihedral and then steep ice all the way.

One full pitch to get to the ledge, then 2 more to get out. first we went on the gully on the left and then we exit on route N8.

green line

Approach about 1h from the farm. Stay on the left of the river high on the slope and then when possible lower in the river and follow it until crossing the gully of “Far is never far enough” at that point the river make a really sharp turn and is better to go up on the slope a little further on the left (we found a step on the river with an open pool impossible to cross) then lower on the river again after the ridge.

2 pitches. Belay on the top, or ice or some rocks.

Descent: follow the slope heading to the farm.

Yellow line on the topos, left line on the Y shape route.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Andrea Fiocca and Brook Woodman 2/2/2021

Amazing waterfall of 60m .

Approach is about 1h from the farm

Line in green in the topos

Possible to rappel down or walk out by the slope on the right

FF: Andrea Fiocca, Brook Woodman and Matteo Meucci  2/2/2021

Evident gully on the right of Bara ef Mamma vissi.

2-3 pitches

Stay on the right of the river and head on the right up on the slope before descending to the river  coming from Inni-hvilft sector.

Possible to rappel down on Vthread or walking down the next gully on the right (route right), with little steps of ice.

FF: Matteo Meucci and Andrea Fiocca 3/2/2021

Route number A15.

Enjoyable route that need long period of cold to fully form.

Follow the river Árdalsá on the left of the crag of Bolaklettur.

2 main pitches then more little steps until the end.

Possible to walk out at almost every pitch and steps , better on the right to reach the slope and the path to go back at the bottom of the valley.

FF: Óþekkt

Leið N5

2-3 pitches depending on the slope conditions.

Rocks on top for belay. Rappel down on Vthread or walk down a slope and gully on the right of the line.

FF: Óþekkt

Route C3 in the topos

The route start with a wide pitch and the get in to a narrow gully that can be followed all the way up with some ice step on the way.

5 pitches 240m WI4

FF: Óþekkt

Descent : or rappel before getting in the gully or if top out then take evident gully on the right (climbing side).

Route 6

Sustained climb with an overhanging section then only in the last meters become easy.

Rappel on V-thread

Access:

N1-very suggested to warm up on the route 7 and then if the river is frozen there is a 10m pillar to climb that lead to this route.

N2 -is to walk up the slope on the left (going upstream) of the gully until facing the route and then descend the easy slope to get to the route

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca 27/01/2021 WI6 50m

Route N7

First route that appear walking towards the gully of Hestagil, it is on the left side going upstream.

Approach about 40′ from Forest Office Hut.

Main obstacle can be to cross the river; we manage quite well by going upstream of the intersection coming from Hestagill.

Possible to rappel down or walk down a slope and then back at the base in the canyon.

FF: Matteo Meucci, Bergur Sigurðarson and Andrea Fiocca  27/01/2021 45m WI4

Route C0B5

Gully right of C0B4

FF: Matteo Meucci 22/01/2021 WI2 40m