Heiladauður M 7

Route B10c

This route is left of Gjörgæsla. It started with a short step leading to a corner with very little ice in it. From there the crux of the route was to step out of the corner and onto a free hanging curtain. Few tricky moves take you to a little rest before you finish to the top.

The route gets logged here with the disclaimer that someone might have climbed it back in the day. There can’t be that many unclimbed routes in Múlafjall anymore.

F.A. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson and Bergur Sigurðarson 10. December 2023

Leið B10a

Starts with a steep and thin ice for about 15 m. At the end there are few tricky moves to get past a little cave below an umbrella on very thin ice. Easy snow slope leads to ice again at the top.

WI4+/5-

FF. Matteo Meucci og Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, 25. mars 2020

Route B10b

Located in a narrow crack to the right of Gjörgæsla. Very little ice low down but got better higher up. WI4

FF. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson og Matteo Meucci, 25. mars 2020

Route B6a

Single route to the right of Scottish Leader. Fun route that starts off steep with few delicate moves to get past some umbrellas at the top. After that there is an easy snow slope up a short ice section.

WI4/+

FF. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson og Matteo Meucci, 25. mars 2020.

Route B9a

Left of Járntjaldið but in the same area. Steepest in the beginning, easier higher up. WI3+

FA. Matteo Meucci og Bjartur Týr Ólafsson, 25. mars 2020

Leið númer B6a.

Leiðin byrjar rétt vinstra megin við Gryfjuna (B7-B9) og endar á sama stað og Sótanautur. Leiðin gæti flokkast sem Sótanautur Direct en eiga samt ekki margar hreyfingar sameiginlegar.

Hringurinn Sótanautur þótti slík gersemi vera fyrir fegurðar sakir og listasmíðar, að betri þótti hann en mörg jafnvægi hans í gulli. Hitt var miður kunnugt, að þau ósköp fylgdu þessum hring, að hann skyldi verða höfuðbani allra þeirra, er hann ættu, nema væri kona eigandinn.

WI 4, 30m

FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Matteo Meucci, 9. apríl 2020

Leið upp pillar á milli B11 (Ljótur piltur) og B12 (Lygakvenndi)

Brattur pillar sem leit út fyrir að vera svona WI 4+ en var svo alveg óheyrilega pumpandi þegar á reyndi. Það var smá tjald sem þurfti að klifra uppundir og utanum sem var allt vel í fangið. Klifrað þegar Múlafjall var í mjög bunkuðum aðstæðum, veit ekki hvort að þetta geti myndast eitthvað léttara.

FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Bergur Ingi Geirsson, 19. mars 2020

Route B8a

Steep pillar above Drjúpandi. Between Sótanautur on the left and Guy to the right.

After the pillar the climb goes through few ice-umbrellas.

FF. Bjartur Týr Ólafsson & Pete Hodge, March 2020, WI5

Route B1d in topos

WI3 40m

Easy gully leads to a short wall to the right.

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route B1c in topos

WI3 40m

Easy gully with a steep part at the end.

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route B1b in topos

WI3 40m

Easy gully with a steep part at the end

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Route B1a on topos

WI3 40m

2 steps with easy part in the middle

FA: Matteo Meucci og Ágúst Kristján Steinarsson 24/03/2019

Leið á milli B19 (Heiladauður) og B20 (Rjúkandi)

Leið III í gamla hraðsoðna leiðarvísinum. Þar segir: Einhver leið. Lítur út fyrir að vera fín byrjendaleið, WI2. Fyllist sennilega af snjó þegar líða tekur á vetur.

Leiðin byrjar á á 5m bröttum kafla en er svo brölt/klifur eftir það.

FF: Óþekkt

Leið B14a

Byrjar á því að klöngrast upp byrjunina af Þursabtit (B14) en beygir svo til hægri og fer upp sama vegg og Fimm í fötu er á (B15) nema alveg vinstra megin á honum. Virkaði brött og samfellt en leyndi á nokkrum góðum hvíldum, gæti sennilega myndast í erfiðari aðstæðum.

Líklega verið klifrað áður en var ekki skráð.

FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson og Matteo Meucci, 5. nóv 2018

Leið B16a

Boltuð mixklifurleið sem átti að vera í léttari kantinum en endaði á því að vera snúin um miðbikið. Hin besta skemmtun og margir metrar af klifri. Fyrsti boltinn er mjög hátt og er í sléttum 30m frá akkerinu. (Notið 70m eða halfrope ef planið er að síga alveg niður frá akkerinu).

FF: Páll Sveinsson og Ottó Ingi Þórisson október 2018

Route number B13.

“Þór er bakkelsi” er ný mixleið á horninu vinstra megin við leiðina “Fimm í fötu M5+”.

Leiðin er 40m og það er hægt að klifra hana í einni spönn en mælt er gegn því sökum núnings sem myndast á stórri syllu fyrir miðri leið. Því hefur verið komið fyrir tveggja bolta milli stans á þeirri syllu. Annars eru 13 boltar í leiðinni. Til að minnka run outið er hæglega hægt að koma fyrir Camalot 1/2 efst í fyrstu spönninni og svo .75 á bröltinu upp að millistansinum. Einnig er hentugt að hafa .5 Camalot fyrir cruxið í efri spönninni.

Fyrsta spönnin er sirka M5 og fylgir augljósri sprungu upp á stallinn. Nóg er af góðum húkkum og spennutökum fyrir axir. Aðal fjörið leynist í efri spönninni þar sem hliðrað er út til vinstri og önnur sprunga leiðir upp í gegnum brattasta kafla klettsins. Aftur er nóg um góð spennutök í sprungunni en eitthvað minna fyrir fætur. Þegar lykilkaflinn hefur verið leystur er eftir skemmtilega krefjandi mantle á toppinn.

Gengið er beint upp að leiðinni frá bílastæðinu og fínt er að síga niður úr boltuðu akkeri á toppnum. Athugið að ef klifrað er á einni 60m línu þá þarf að síga niður í tveimur köflum. 70m lína og tvöfaldar línur ná auðveldlega niður.

Leiðin var fyrst farin af Matteo Meucci í Nóvember 2015.

Route number B2.

Left route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B4.

Right route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B6.

Bolted overhanging mix climbing route. Traverses left under a big roof – real piece for hard heads!. First bolted route in Múlafjall. The route was named after the drinks that were drunk during the climb. Upper part it hard to climb if there is no ice and you might have to use traditional protection above the bolts.

FA: Styrmir Steingríms, Jökull B & Guðmundur T, 1998-1999, M7 (4 bolts), 30-40m

Rebolted in 2020

Route number B8.

Icicle up from Drjúpandi. Climbed by Palli Sveins and one of the most famous ice climber of that time, Guy Lacalle.

FF: Guy Lacalle og Páll Sveinsso, 1996, WI 5

Route number B12.

The big waterfall on the right side of Ljótur piltur

FA: Unknown

Route number B18.

Popular route, left side in a big circ, a little bit east of Íste. Steep first part, often with a thin icicle mid way up.

FA: Unknown, WI 4-5, 35m

Route number B19.

Unrepeated route with hard mix climbing in the start. Middle of the Fjúkandi circ.

FA: Páll Sveinsson, Guðmundur H C. ~1996, M7

Route number B20.

Very nice route! Starts on a short but steep step, maybe 5m to a small snow slope/ledge. From there the later half is quite a bit longer and more sustained. First part can be tricky if there is not enough ice. Later half might also be WI 4+ in some conditions.

FA: Unknown, WI 4, 70m

Route number B21.

The name of the route translates to: “A good day to die”, if it was like that or not. Around the corner from Íste is an obvious roof and about 15m further to the east is a clear light groove in the rock that recently (1998) has collapsed. There is the route. It is obvious, follows the crack for the first 20m, into a small hole in loose rock and then straight up on a little bit of ice. It ends in a small roof with good holds and then to the top.

FA: Jökull B, Guðmundur T, Styrmir Steingríms, 24. October 1998, M6, 30m

Route number B22.

In an obvious icefree crack east of Íste. The route ends on ice.

FA: Páll Sveinsson & Helgi Borg, 7. February 1999, M5 20-30m

Route number B3.

Middle route in the “Trinity” in the most eastern part of Kötlugróf. Beautiful and popular routes.

FA: Unknown, WI 4+, 30m

Route number B14.

number VI in the old Múlafjall tobo

The gully on the left of Fimm í fötu

WI 2-3, very different depending on how much ice forms

one pitch, FA is unknown.

Route number B17

The first ice route right of Fimm í fötu (B14)

Possibility to climb left or right to top out

The route gets the name “Svikinn um bjór”, swindled out of beer, in honor of everyone  that has been swindled by Palli Sveins out of five in a bucket.

FF: Unknown

Route number B16.

Two pitches, first one around M 5 and the other one harder, around M 6/+.

The first pitch follows an obvious crack on the outside of a nose that sticks out, right next to the route Fimm í fötu (2) and the first two meters are the hardest. After about 20m of climbing you get to a ledge, where it is easy and straight forward to make a belay. The second pitch goes up to the right from the belay and heads for a very obvious rock pillar, that looks alarmingly loose. Surprisingly it did not move and there is a lot of stuff that’s going to fall down before that one. After that section you traverse over a slab, directly under the massive an obvious roof. At the end og the traverse, you get into a very wide crack in a very flared corner. This is the crux of the whole route, tricky axe and feet placements and hard to belay, best option for belay is if you brought along a size 5 camalot but 4 might work as well. After about 3m of this you get easyer climbing, better placements, but the corner is still flared and all movement is tricky, but easier than before. At the top you can make a good belay and also extend it to the top bolt of Fimm í fötu.

The route was first accented on trad onsight but the plan is to place some bolts in it. It had a lot of loose rock, but majority of it was thrown down, so it should be allright and free of the most obvious hazards.

The name is a reference to a debated newly elected president of America, that claims that climate change is just a hoax made by the Chinese. The first accent was done on the 30th of november 2016 in 3°C heat, with almost no ice on either side of the mountain, very unusual for the season. Even though the mixroute is dry, it is best to do it while frozen, it has a lot of moss that makes things easier if it is frozen.

FA: Matteo Meucci and Jónas G. Sigurðsson 30.11.2016

Route number B5.

East part of Kötlugróf has a small tight gully with a fun ice route. The route varies a lot depending on how much ice is in the route and can the upper part be challenging. In the top part there sometimes forms a large umbrella, that can be challenging. In the middle of the route, there is the option of placing a nice cam in a crack to the side. Can be nice to have 1-2 short screws. The route is 40m and above there is a rock that can be used for belay, but a snowseat is also possible. The big gully easy of Kötlugróf is good for decent.

FA: Arnar Halldórsson og Magnús Blöndal, 30. janúar 2016.

Route number B1.

At the east side of Kötlugróf is a nice ice route with a good approach for Múlafjall.

The route is hardest for the first 20 m and after that is pretty easy to the top. There is not a lot of options for protection at the top, so a snow seat is an option. Total length is about 45m.

Big gully to the east is good for decent.

F.F. Arnar Halldórsson og Magnús Blöndal, 30. janúar 2016.

Route number B7.

The route starts quite hard (15m) and then there is a steep ice slope up to the left to the final part that is steep and fun. Total length is 45m.

There is a big rock at the top for belay but it might be nice to backup.

The name Sótanautur comes from a ring that was described in Harðar saga. It is believed that the ring was hidden right below this area.

F.A. Arnar Halldórsson og Magnús Blöndal, January 17, 2016.

Route number B9.

Drjúpandi starts with a 10m waterfall up to a snow slope that leads to the main section. You climb all the way to the rockface where there are big umbrellas and icicles. Total length 50m.

Great route for beginners because you can traverse to the left where the route is easier. Decent is on a V-thread.

FA: Arnar Halldórsson og Magnús Blöndal, January 17, 2016.

Route number B11.

The route follows a corner, 200m east of Íste.

The start is 5m vertical ice, that leads up to steps of ice and moss in a circ. From there you have a couple of options but the route follows a narrow band by the left wall, that leads through a meter wide crack and from there to the top.

Physically not hard but offers a few fun moves and possibly some mixed moves.

40m

FA: Unknown

Route number B10.

Starts with a 10m steep waterfall, after that there is a snow slope to the hard part. From there is goes to the left and tops out.

Total length is about 65m but can be done as one pitch if you walk around the first part. On the top there is only snow and moss for belay.

FA: Arnar Halldórsson and Magnús Blöndal, January 10, 2016

Route number B15.

Right side in the second gully after Íste. Obvious chimney in the top part. Tightly bolted and three bolts in the anchor (2 on a ledge and one further up to simplify the scramble down if the tear is going else where TR).
This route was climbed in the middle ages by GHC and PS without bolts.

Ca. 35m long