WI 5 – ca 120 meters
Area: Lón east of Höfn in southeast Iceland.
Location: This route is in the biggest waterfall that you see in the mountain you look at straight ahead when you drive through the tunnel between Hornafjörður and Lónssveit. It is in a mountain called Fjarðarheiði, about 2 km east of the tunnel and there is only a 10 minutes walk up to the route from the main road. You leave your car where the road starts to turn from north to east along the mountain Fjarðarheiði. The route has the same beginning as the route Kaldamús, i.e. the first pitch is the same.
Description: The first pitch was already WI4- since it got vertical for few meters. It was in two steps, and the upper steps was WI3.
Then we came to the free standing pillar in the middle pitch. The first part was easy but the main pillar was more than vertical for quite a distance and did not give any rest until at the last couple of meters at the top.
The third part of the route is probably possible in one long pitch, but due to being utterly exhausted from the middle pitch we broke it up into 3 pitches. First Oskar climbed up the first part and found shelter behind the big curtain, then Einar led up the vertical middle part,
and then Oskar finished up to the top.
FF: Óskar Arason and Einar R. Sigurðsson, 10/12 2011
6 related routes
There are a number of interesting gullies or ‘gils’ on the North side of Hvammsheiði accessed from Laxárdalur. The route climbs through the ravine forming the climbers right branch of Vondagil and up the face at it’s head, finishing on the high plateau of Hvammsheiði. The first section which is not visible in the photo consisted of soloing around 350m of WI1+ to WI2+ terrain. The pitched climbing starts a short distance above the obvious junction with the shorter line to the right.
WI3+ 275m.
P1: WI3 30m,
P2: WI3+ 55m,
P3 WI2 60m,
P4: WI3+ 55m,
P5: WI3+ 55m,
P6: M3? 20m.
Rich Bell and Przemek Pakulniewicz, 14/03/2023.
Rauð lína á mynd, græn er niðurleiðin.
Leiðinn sem við fórum upp norðurvegg Múlatinda liggur upp áberandi snjógil með tveimur íshöftum. Gilið er hliðargil til vesturs úr mest áberandi gilinu á norðurhlið eystri af tveimur hæstu Múlatindunum.
Heildarhækkun er um 700 m en þar af eru um 300 m snjóbrölt og tvö WI 3 íshöft. (meira…)
Keyrðum aðeins um í Lóni, komum við á einum stað sem Gummi heldur uppá og klifruðum líltinn foss þar sem er ofboðslega fallegur að sumri, ca. 10m og er létt 3. gráða. Ofan fossins er svo lúmskt flottur og langur dalur sem tekur við, enda frekar há fjöll þarna.
FF: Guðmundur Freyr Jónsson, Arnar Jónsson og Davíð Jón Ögmundsson, 19. febrúar 2010
Skemmtilegar myndir frá Fjallateyminu má sjá hér
WI 5 – ca 120 meters
Area: Lón east of Höfn in southeast Iceland.
Location: This route is in the biggest waterfall that you see in the mountain you look at straight ahead when you drive through the tunnel between Hornafjörður and Lónssveit. It is in a mountain called Fjarðarheiði, about 2 km east of the tunnel and there is only a 10 minutes walk up to the route from the main road. You leave your car where the road starts to turn from north to east along the mountain Fjarðarheiði. The route has the same beginning as the route Kaldamús, i.e. the first pitch is the same.
Description: The first pitch was already WI4- since it got vertical for few meters. It was in two steps, and the upper steps was WI3.
Then we came to the free standing pillar in the middle pitch. The first part was easy but the main pillar was more than vertical for quite a distance and did not give any rest until at the last couple of meters at the top.
The third part of the route is probably possible in one long pitch, but due to being utterly exhausted from the middle pitch we broke it up into 3 pitches. First Oskar climbed up the first part and found shelter behind the big curtain, then Einar led up the vertical middle part,
and then Oskar finished up to the top.
FF: Óskar Arason and Einar R. Sigurðsson, 10/12 2011
Vinstri leiðin á mynd
Lón austan við Höfn í Hornafirði
Leiðin er neðarlega í hlíðum Fjarðarheiðar, þar sem þjóðvegurinn byrjar að fylgja rótum fjallsins (Fjarðarheiði) ca. 200 m vinstra megin við Kaldamús. Aðrar mögulegar leiðir eru mun ofar í hlíðinni.
Leiðin er í nokkrum stöllum og var efsti stallurinn í aðal leiðinnihæstur og brattastur. Svo löbbuðum við aðeins áfram upp skriðuna og fundum óvænt smá viðbót, 15-20 metra ísþil sem leiddi okkur upp á klettastall sem við þurftum svo að síga niður af.
FF: Bjarki Kárason og Einar R. Sigurðsson, 25. nóv. 2006, 80m
Þetta er fyrsta íslænan sem maður sér þegar keyrt er inn í Lónssveit. Leiðin er í gili í hlíðum Fjarðarheiðar, þar sem þjóðvegurinn byrjar að fylgja rótum fjallsins (Fjarðarheiði). Tekur bara 10 mínútur að labba að leiðinni frá þjóðveginum. Það er líka ís
Við fórum leiðina í 3 stuttum spönnum, fyrstu 2 spannirnar voru bara 15 metrar hvor og stutt sylla á milli þeirra og eðlilegt væri að fara þetta í einni spönn. Fyrir ofan þessi 2 höft komum við í 30 metra langa snjóbrekku í stórri hvilft í gilinu. Við klifruðum upp úr þessari hvilft upp 20 metra hátt íshaft og komum upp í efstu hvilftina í gilinu. Þaðan sigum við niður í 2 sigum.
FF: Bjarki Kárason, Matthildur Unnur Þorsteinsdóttir og Einar R. Sigurðsson, 08. jan. 2005
